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4.30.2009

May Flowers: flowers of the nation’s youth

May  flowers.  Here we have the ubiquitous cherry blossom flower, which has always been synonymous with spring in Japan.  Every year from March until early May these flower bloom in their full splendor.  The four seasons(five?), are a sight to behold.  Here in this part of the world people really celebrate the changing of the seasons.  In spring, you can eat just about any kind of food dish with a cherry blossom theme; cherry blossom ice cream, sake, beer, wine.  This photo was taken in the late evening.

Another one of my favorites in May is the so called, listen to this one,Mealy Blue Sage(below): Salvia farinacea Benth.

Next up, we have the Stagger Bush, which is always nice to look at, especially early in the morning when there’re dew drops on them. This flower looks almost exactly like another flower called the “Lilies of the Valley” only difference is that the stems on this one are longer.(below) Lyonia mariana.

Another gem of a flower is called the Eastern Red Bud(below): Cercis canadensis L.

This flower isn’t native to Japan, but to Canada which sometimes can vary in appearance just slightly.  I could probably most more May flower, but these ones are my favorite. 
Another link to some fantastic May flower.

4.28.2009

Dried Fruits of Nihonmatsu

Whenever I visit a local farmer’s  market in this area I’m always amazed at how beautiful and hulking the women are, like silly little big legged bovine beauties walking around so carefree – fair skinned, black hair, long and flowing like a horse’s mane.  I wanna marry this type of woman.  I would do anything to marry the type of Japanese woman who only cares about making love, eating, and drinking delicious sake, and of  course onsen and shrines.  She is a fruit of the earth.  She’s a Japanese fruit.  A Fukushima variety.
Fruits come in many forms and can be eaten in many ways.  Kanpyou(かんぴょう), or dried strips of the flesh of a variety of gourd, used in Japanese cooking…i.e. dried fruits.  
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Whole dried honey apricot(みつあんず), which tasted a bit too sweet, but was  nice on a warm sunny day.
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This is a type of citrus called yuzu, which was dried  shredded and marinades in honey.  Always a favorite for me.
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And then lastly, my favorite.  Whole dried baby tomatoes.  I love eating these as is, or with a nice tall  glass of ice cold barley tea(むぎちゃ).   AHhh…Fukushima.

Nihonmatsu Part 2: Dairin Temple

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Here at this temple are the remains of the Nihonmatsu Boy’s Squad.  In Boshin War, boys from twelve to seventeen years old fought to protect the castle.   Among them, the souls of 14 boys and the captain and the second in command who died in the war are resting in the family temple.
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It was really heart warming to see so many people paying respect here.   I had to wait in line just to get get close enough for this picture.
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Amidst the solemn air there were still interesting and beautiful things to look at, like this furnace and cherry blossom tree enjoying the afternoon sun together; I’m sure they were enemies during winter, but totally friends during spring.
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Or this stone monument.
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Beautiful Shidare Cherry Blossoms.   And then there’s the temple itself.
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The main temple where I received my omen.
This is one of those rare and off the beaten track temples that most tourist never have an opportunity to visit.  I wasn’t surprised to see a lot of old people on this tour though.  I was so happy.

4.27.2009

The Beauty of Nihonmatsu!

Nihonmatsu (nihon=Japan / Matsu=Pine), so Japan Pines, or pines of Japan. Tucked away in Fukushima prefecture , the city itself used to be a town, until it was upgraded to a city back in 1958. But even with its current status, it still holds on to its old charms as a boring little city/town replete with castles and historical monuments. Two castles to note are Obama Caste and Nihonmatsu Castle, which happen to be in Japan’s top 100 best castles category.
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The guards of the castle once upon a time were boys as young as 12 and 13, in fact there are many tragic tales of children who fought for their lord, even unto death through ritual suicide, or ritual disembowelment.
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It is their legacy that lives on in the hearts and minds of the locals here. The picture above are figures of the Boy's Squad on the Odanguchi Battle Field, the bloodiest battlefield of the Boshin War, and that of a mother who is making the battle cloth of her child.
And then, there are the beautiful things that are worth defending.
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And even then, there is Hanamiyama Park on the other side of Nihonmatsu with its bounty of flora and fauna.
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The tulips. Oohh…you bulbous spring flower you…
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Making everybody happy she does, with her vibrant pedals.
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Then a natural collage of spring and autumn, which never went away for some reason.
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Deeper they went
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This was no overnight accomplishment. There was a lot of hard work and hands that went in to creating this mountain park.
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What a pleasant afternoon I had here.
This concludes the first segment of Nihonmatsu.

4.26.2009

Omen of Death

Two very strange things happened to me recently. The dead black butterfly on my dashboard yesterday morning; I always lock my car doors. I have no idea how this black butterfly wound up dead on my dashboard - no one else has a key to my car but me. I gently removed it and placed it over by the garbage dump. It was a really beautiful full size black butterfly with trailing green and gold lines down the bottom backside of its wings.

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According to popular superstition a black butterfly is an omen of death, perhaps of a loved one or even your own death. The superstition also goes on to say that if you sight a black butterfly flying around you, you should kill it immediately! Do not let it fly out of your window or else misfortune will visit you. In my case, however, the butterfly was already dead and intact - no signs of physical abuse or struggle were there. Still it freaked me out knowing that there was a dead butterfly on the dashboard of my car. How did it get there, and by whose hand was it placed? Now, I am not really a superstitious person, but on that same day two negative things happened to me. A hole the size of a 12 inch dinner plate was discovered on the back of my pants! I must've bent down to plug my laptop in I guess, and my pants ripped open revealing my underwear and everything. I didn't notice this until the staff pointed it out to me and this was after my third class, I had two more classes to teach. I was walking around smiling at everybody while trying to maintain this air of dignity all the while not knowing I had this immense hole in the back of my pants.

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Another negative thing happened on this same day; I lost my voice. I have to give a lecture at a seminar early next May in front of about 300 people. I haven't informed the staff about my voice yet. I struggled all day today with private lessons. I usually teach about six private lessons on Sunday, but I had to cancel two because I could barely hear myself talking. There went my easy 40,000 yen day.

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Another instance of strange luck leading up to the discovery of the dead butterfly was at this temple I visited last weekend in Fukushima. I was standing at the altar next to one of my Jukujo mothers when all of a sudden off to my right a hornet was buzzing up against the temple's opaque sliding glass door - stingers fully visible even from where I was standing. It couldn't see through the opaque glass, but I knew for some reason it was looking for me....buzzing up against the glass, feeling its way around for just a little opening. While we were offering up prayers at the alter with one eye shut I could almost imagine its stingers puncturing deep into the flesh of my neck, right near where the jugular vein is and then pumping me with its venom as if it were ejaculating it out of its little body writhing and squeezing every bit of it out of itself in a type of pleasure pain moment . I wasn't supposed to be here in this temple with this woman offering up prayers. We can't fool the gods. They know of this and about this union, and my thirst for the Japanese mother.

Maybe the gods knew about the other unions, too. Like the one where I was eating from someone else's storehouse, or when I was drinking from someone else's chalice in the kitchen at 10pm, when the master was out and I was there in his abode in the name of English. Just on the other side of that paper thin sliding door where her two grown sons knelt while listening in intently as strange noises began to come through. One of the boys tried to peek underneath one of the partitions. He was never able to get a clear visual confirmation of anything, his head was too big I guess, just shadows moving against light. I guess he thought we were moving the kitchen table around or maybe he thought we were trying to redecorate the place. They also heard a funny kind of English, though. Not exactly able to make out certain unfamiliar words and phrases. So many onomatopoeias. Not even the world's best dictionary could satisfy their curiosity. At first they may have tried to ignore the worst possible thing that could've been happening to their mother. (" naw, not my mom, they would say").

When the master of the house would return home the first thing he'd notice was the expensive empty sake bottle on the table, along with empty dinner plates. Nothing was prepared for him, just leftovers. His two grown sons were sitting in the living room watching T.V. with full belly's both with uncomfortable grins across their faces and a strange air about them. Every lesson we had she would prepare a feast for me and the boys. First they would eat, and then be excused. The expensive sake and feast were reserved for me. After all, I had to create an atmosphere for learning. After every one of these encounters I was paid 10,000 yen. I felt so guilty taking this money as I walked out the door fully satisfied.

Then, one evening at the dinner table, with all the family there, minus me, he asked why they had been drinking so much premium sake for dinner lately. And then one of the boys(age 27) said " that's our English teacher's sake. Mom buys the sake for him." In the fathers mind, he said to himself "that also explains why the credit card bills were getting so high, my wife kept buying new clothes, sexy clothes at that, and then the empty sake bottles and the lavish dinners. But why hadn't my boys brought this to my attention earlier?" A meeting ensued and questions were being tossed around. " Why does an English teacher need to drink sake and eat fine dinners? Who is this person?" he said. Perhaps, at first he thought, she was a young American girl from Smallville, U.S.A., Clark Kents hometown. "Ah! no, not quite. He's from L.A." one of the boys retorted. Nothing needed to be discussed any further from that point, his fears were confirmed.

Our lessons came to an abrupt halt and then the call from a payphone from somewhere and a warning " I'm watching you." I felt like I was a blind naked sitting in a snowy field in the dead of winter's ice cold chill at minus 37 below zero with the cold snotty muzzle of a wolf's nose pressed up against my cheek – helpless and so Ccccold….

4.23.2009

ToroToro Umeshu: plum liquor

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Going forward I will from time to time include some Japanese into my blog posts when regarding food or sake. The excerpts below were taken from the label in the packaging of this product along with my own article. 

The pictures you are looking at are my own rare photos which I took of a type of umeshu(plum liquor) some time ago. Brewers today do not make umeshu the same way they use to make it. 

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皆! これを読んでください。。。あるさいとからコーピをしました。
ほんとに美味しいです!

「江戸時代の人ってどうやって歯を磨いていたのか!?」
そんなことを考えると夜も眠れないとかそうでもないとか…
最近、歯磨きについての答えを遂に発見した【梅酒屋新人久松】です!
(その答えは後ほど!)
江戸時代の生活って正直言って未知!
超人気アイドルなんていたんでしょうか…
人気No.1歌舞伎役者なんてのもいそうですね…」
終わり。。。] 終わり 

私、「あのすごく美味しいです。。。
二年前とろとろ梅酒を注文しました!
楽天から!
…ということは…江戸時代人気No.1梅酒なんてのも!?
人気No.1梅酒はわかりませんが、
すでに江戸時代に梅酒は存在していたのです!
■江戸時代の梅酒、再現してみましたー!!■ 」


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梅酒の起源を探る
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梅酒の起源を探る・・。
梅酒屋として一番実現させたかったことかもしれません。
花札シリーズでもお馴染みの八木酒造さんが江戸時代に書かれた文献
『本朝食鑑(ほんちょうしょっかん)』を基に
当時の梅酒を再現してくださいました!
この企画、八木酒造さんじゃないと駄目だったのです。
その理由は・・。
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古酒をもちいて
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本朝食鑑によると『古酒を用いて』という件があります。
梅酒の味を大きく左右するベースとなるお酒・・。
ここで手を抜く訳にはいきません。
今回、仕込みに使った古酒は、あの菩提元のお酒なんです!
菩提元のお酒とは、室町時代に奈良の菩提山正暦寺で造られ、
製造工程で生米を使うという特殊な醸造法で作られたものです。
それが今日の清酒の始まりと言われています。
えっ?だから?昔のお酒の製法はわかったけど、昔の話でしょ?!
いえいえ、このほどその造りが正暦寺で約500年ぶりに復活したんです!
そのお酒を造っておられるのが、
偶然にもおなじみの八木酒造さんだったんです!
そんな訳で最もふさわしい古酒で仕込む準備は整いました。
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梅酒づくりに「灰」をつかう?!
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『灰汁に漬け洗い、紙で拭く』
現代の梅酒造りでは考えられない作業があるんです!
何故わざわざこのような手間をかけるのか・・。
八木社長によると
「灰汁に漬けることで、梅の酸と灰汁のアルカリが中和して、
すなわち梅の酸味をまろやかにするのではないか」
ということです。
試飲してみると明らかにマイルドになっています!
先人の知恵には恐れ入ります。
しかし、その途方も無く手間のかかる作業は今後の梅酒界において

The Old Country: Backbone of Tochigi

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Local  lady with her back against the sun working in the garden.

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Beautiful streamers against a blue cloudy sky.

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An old shed, a cherry blossom tree, miles and miles of rail line stretching deep into uncharted lands.  Tourism isn’t needed here.

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Old man working in the field, elementary school kids at play.

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4.22.2009

The Quiet Rural Life

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The backcountry in Tochigi is beautiful. This father and daughter were strolling along enjoying each others company.

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Farmer cultivating his fields and preparing for another season of rice growing.

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Of course I had to snap a few pictures of trains. I love JR.

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In the end,this is the real Japan. Getting away from the grind, enjoying the simple life and simple ways like walking along miles and miles of rice fields. Soaking in the morning sun and breathing in that fresh country air. I love Tochigi prefecture.

4.21.2009

Cultural Property 5: Corridors

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Corridors of Yomei-mon Gate:  The panels of corridors of the Yomei-mon Gate are decorated with chiseled figures of birds, flowers, beast, etc. in brilliant color.   The carvings are plated with gold in order to protect them against rain and fog.   The carvings were originally painted by the famous painter Kano Riemon.
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Cultural Property 5: Revolving Lantern

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Revolving Lantern (important Cultural Property):  Dedicated by the king of Holland.  Misdesigned by  a Dutch; it’s hollyhocks at opare are set upside down. They can be seen near the top in circular shape.

4.20.2009

Cultural Property 4: Sacred Stable

This is also very interesting for me.  Finally, I had a chance to see the sacred horse who was housed in its stable, which is the only (un)lacquered structure in the precincts. 

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Lovely wood carvings along the entrance.

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“Hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil.”

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It came right up to me.  When others would approach it he would turn his head away.  It must be some love connection there.   The sacred horse.

Cultural Property 3


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A Japanese lady off to the far left holding baby……
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Elephants in relief were carved after the original drawings by Tanyu Kano.  Known as “Elephants of Imagination” from realistic viewpoint of appearance of tails and ears.

Cultural Property: part 2

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The Main Shrine is where the remains of one of Japan’s most venerated Lords, Tokugawa Ieyasu is enshrined. 
A couple of things I look for in a shrine is the elaborate colors and reliefs that are used, which not only represent the prosperity of the people who built it, but also the spiritual quality of the person who was deified in it.
Another thing I look for is the style in which the inner sanctum was designed.  The most widely recognized design style is the Gongen-zukuri style where the inner sanctum is interconnected to a series of corridors and hallways in the shape of an “H.”  This shows a unifying link between Buddhist and Shintoism dating back all the way to the Heian period(798-1185).
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Main entrance to the hall of worship which is called the Kara-mon Gate and Haiden, both national treasures.

Important Cultural Property: part 1

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“Shoro Belfry and Kuro Bell  and Drum Tower were built in Buddhist style at Nikko Toshogu.  I really love the balance with cedar and the dignity of this tower.

One note that a lot of people don’t blog about on this tower and Buddhism in  general is that Buddhism has been, for centuries, one of the most culturally and racially inclusive religions in the world.   Some of the bell drum towers surrounding Toshogu were donated from countries as far as Denmark, and then built according to Buddhist techniques.

Toshougu is arguably the only “shrine that is a temple, and a temple that is a shrine” all in one. The melding of these two archaic religions go back centuries and is what has shaped Japanese people and its culture over the ages.  

4.19.2009

Slow Times in Japan: Silence is Golden


The tank is full, the car is clean, and I'm cruising down the expressway at 120k/h with my windows down on a beautiful Thursday morning, not a cop in sight -- not a care in the world. I finally get to Hakone, world renowned for its hot springs-- just before noon then follow a long winding road up to the top of a hill to one of my favorite onsen.
After I get to the locker room I peep out to check who’s outside. "Excellent" I say to myself. Just a few pieces of furniture ( one or two old men gazing off into nowhere and sitting idly and complaining about everything and nothing). I can never bring myself to sit in an onsen full of people and then chat the whole experience away.



I get undressed, head over to the shower area with my long nylon towel (extra coarse). I make sure to rinse everything around the wash area before I squat down on one of the little stools. Then, I fill my bucket up with hot water, squeeze a little liquid soap into it and then dunk my nylon towel; getting it all nice and lathered up, I then begin to scrub my body down thoroughly.


Nylon towels are painful to use because they feel like sandpaper across the skin, but very good for removing dead skin and stimulating circulation. Finally rinsing the soap off I head out to the onsen, get in, and adjust my body to the hot water.   "OOOohhhaaaaayeah!" I grunt as I ease into the hot water, slowly and cautiously, so I don't slip.


After getting acclimated to the water an old Japanese man asks  me "Wawafom / where are you from?" I point to the sky. He looks at me a puzzled look.    Maybe if he had tried greeting me first, I wouldn't have been so sarcastic.   I continue.   I'm from the moon.   Then I asked him " where are you from?" And now he's looking even more befuddled. "I'm from Japan!" he says, with a nervous chuckle.


("In Japan, even if you only know one or two phrases the locals all say " you speak good Japanese" or in the language "Aaahhh....nihongo jozu desu ne." If you speak Japanese too well then they generally lose interest in you and shy away from you").   Charming.



Maybe had I approached him in a swimming pool in L.A., being half naked, and asking him where he was from withoutf first greeting him , just maybe he would've thought I was a nuisance, too.  I would never approach another grown man naked in a public bath without first greeting or addressing him properly. And no, blabbing off at a stranger has nothing to do with the culture of Japan, nothing whatsoever so spare me.



Another experience I had is where another guy addressed me as "Oi!" which is a bit derogatory and means "Hey!" in Japanese. I just ignored him which made him look a bit embarrassed.  I don't answer to "Oi!" I would never address another Japanese with such a word.


While sitting in this hot water I always take deep breathes while closing my eyes momentarily. Soaking in the pristine nature around me as birds serenade me, I take notice of the constant stream of hot onsen water gushing out of a stone from afar.  Instantly I am relaxed.  This is what weekdays are for. Getting away from the loved ones, heading out to some remotely located onsen, soaking in nature, and catching up with mother nature.


After soaking and enjoying myself for 3 hours I go to the rest area, grab a cold beer and order up some fried octopus legs - I love legs. The beer this place serves always comes in a tall frosty mug and legs are always so juicy and crispy. After about two beers I take a nap in the sleep area next to a flowing river then wake up refreshed a few hours later then head home.
Silence is Golden


I love Japan
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