Short Prose: Scrubbing Hard

Just beyond the misty window pane, a scolding voice was  heard,” that’s not how you do it stupid!  Try using this nylon towel instead.  Put the soap in it then wrapped it over.  Run the hot water over it and shake it so as to create a thick lather.” 


Yuji  clumsily followed these instructions from his senior with nervous ambivalence.  It’s just a 12 by 12 hard surface nylon towel that many Japanese use to wash themselves when taking a bath.  Its granular  surface is intended to slightly irritate the skin in order to open  the pores through exfoliation.
Why should a 19 year old care about this meticulous attention to detail stuff, especially over a stupid little nylon towel.  Scrubbing Yuji’s back roughly, the senior chided,” you young people are so careless nowadays.  You have to be taught everything.”  


Most people remove their spectacles before entering into the bathing area, but for some reason Yuji’s senior didn’t.  All the while scrubbing his back his glasses began to fog up.  In between scrubs he would wipe a shaky finger across both lenses, then quickly wipe the sweat away from his brow in one stroke with his left bicep and forearm.  “ I want to show you how to scrub the body “ running his towel down Yuji’s lower back “ This is how you do it, see, you scrub hard with lots of lather,” huffing and puffing each vowel out as little beads of sweat run from his nose and upper lip, skin stretched tautly across his receding hair lined forehead through self determination.  Yuji could feel the old man’s hot breath down his back as if there was a wolf behind him instead of a human being.  A shaky nervous breath.
Turning around ……. in nervous horror…..

Dormy Inn Shinsaibashi

The Soul of Japan
The Dormy Inn Hotel in Shinsaibashi, Osaka is definitely the place to stay when visiting this city. 
For me, one of the most important things a hotel can have are good amenities and services, like the 24 hrs open and indoor baths and sauna.   One nice feature about using the bath is that you have to use a code number in order to access the bathing area.    It’s a good feature because you know that only guest are allowed to use the baths.  Sometimes I like feeling a little exclusive.   The hotel even offers you complimentary bottled water right after check-in.
The room I had was small but clean and came with everything a top grade hotel could offer: flat screen T.V., large pajamas, slippers, fridge, cutlery, utensils, and so on. 
Amenities:

• TV
• Telephone
• LAN
• Pot
• Tea Set
• Refrigerator
• Hair Dryer
• Trouser Presser (Lending)
• Desk Lamp (Lending)
• Iron (Lending)
• Humidifier (Lending)
• Body Soap
• Conditioning Shampoo
• Toothbrush
• Razor
• Comb
• Towel
• Bath Towel
• Relaxation Wear
• Slippers

Another nice thing is the 24 hour convenience store attached to the annex floor.  I joke you not, I could walk out of my room in my pajamas and slippers and enter through an annex directly into a convenience store from the first floor without actually having to leave the building.  And I don’t mean a convenience store affiliated with the hotel, but a family mart, which is a major convenience store chain found all through out Japan. 
Some of the biggest things I notice travelers need the most are access to amenities, like a coin laundry machines, lots of AC outlets, and internet access.   The coin laundry is located right near the entrance to the bathing area, and for just a few yen you can wash a load or two while soaking in the bathing are
Cost is 7800 yen per night for an economy double, breakfast included.  check-out is between 11 and 12, so you can take your time – no rush.   The rooms are clean and well furnished and quiet.  The fridge is small and empty so you can purchase beverages and stock the fridge.  24hour desk.    Brochures in English are generously provided at the front desk explaining everything from how to use the toilet to where breakfast will be served.   The rooms are located high so there’s no noise disturbance from the ground floor or from outside.   Shinsaibashi is one of the most lively night spots in Osaka.  There’s so much excitement down there.
The hotel is located here
5 min. walk from Exit No. 7 of Shinsaibashi Sta. on the Midosuji subway Line.
3 min. walk from Exit No. 5 of Yotsubashi Sta. on the Yotsubashi subway Line
By: Tony Lajuan Alexander
Copyright 2009
www.thesoulofjapan.blogspot.com

People of Osaka

Leaving pleasant memories behind in Osaka I felt refreshed in knowing that there’re still Japanese who love being Japanese everyday; the ones who love Japanese sake(nihonshu), and who can also appreciate some Western influences, but while at the same time not get carried away with the obsession of being too Westernized for their own good.

I too may come off as obsessed, but believe me, I’ll take a greasy chili cheeseburger and American pizza over sushi any day. I also revere the history of the American forefathers too, because I know that no nation is perfect. Japan is not perfect, but it’s pretty damn close.

I can still remember horror stories about people in Osaka from Tokyoites and Hamakos (Yokohama born people).

(“Back when Kyoto was the capital people used to look down on Osaka people. Osaka people are loud and rude. Osaka people have no manners. Osaka people are poor”).

I used to here stuff like this from Japanese in Kanagawa and “Tokyo to” until finally I went there, to Osaka, myself. Never have I met such real Japanese people in my life. People who are so down to earth and natural, were the thoughts that went through my head. I was not only impressed at how well they balanced Western influence, but at how well they maintained the essence of the soul of Japan through music, fashion, and even hospitality. I was treated royally.

Some of the most fantastic people I’ve met in my life are from Osaka. Miss. Fuji was the first, and then my good friend (しょうふくてい つるべ),Tsurube, well-known Japanese comedian whom I still keep in touch with to this day. I’ve got a few other buddies I hang out with( top secret husband and wife couple if you know what I mean).

And then there’re the ordinary citizens of Osaka who wake up and go about their business everyday, like this guy chatting away on his handy phone. I wonder if he noticed the girl to his left.

Some are husbands and fathers, mothers and lovers.

I love ordinary everyday Japanese people. Just walking around I could feel so much energy down there.

I remember sitting in my hotel room in Osaka watching the telly. I never saw so many nihonshu commercials per channel, it was great. I rarely see such t.v. commercials in Kanagawa. I can’t even remember the last time one was aired.

And then there’s this guy. Maybe he was a visitor just like me, but nobody paid him any attention. I guess maybe he was stone facing everybody.

I can’t forget to comment on the outstanding taxi service in Osaka either – the best! I must’ve hailed several taxis the couple of days I was there.

I remember walking around after midnight looking for this restaurant I had found on the net a few days ago. A taxi driver got out of his car, walked over and help point me to Tenpei.

For those coming to Tokyo or Kanagawa, don’t ride in the taxis. They are the worst: rude, suspicious, and not courteous. Sometimes they even feign ignorance on familiar landmarks and buildings, or even drop you off in inconveniently located places.

And then we have the Glico man with his arms out stretched. You haven’t seen Osaka until you have taken a picture of this giant neon sign of a man running. And then, you have the first foreign deity in Japan. The Billiken

The story behind this dwarf Billiken is very interesting. It was banned during WW2, then brought back.

Osaka also has some really cool trains. The Rapiito Line ラピート. Which is equivalent to the Narita Express in Kanto. Here’s another fantastic link in English.

And then , how can I forget the ワンマンカー or, “one man car.” A nice little red and white local trolley with a long long history in Osaka.

How could I also forget my favorite type of eye candy to my left, too. Jukujo.

I’m also reminded at how things look from the top of the city

The people of Osaka gave me something to look forward to in June. What will I get myself into next time I’m down there? Maybe I’ll go deeper in Osaka. I don’t know.

In conclusion, I must offer some food for thought to the reader. People are people. However, in Osaka people are the living manifestation of their will to live life to the fullest. They can be who they want to be, but they always know what it means to be just plain and simply a Japanese. Sometimes I wonder whether or not Osaka was the original capital…?

Kanto what on earth ever happened to your soul?

Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine

 
Shinto is the native religion of Japan.   In keeping in line with the theme and essence of my blog I present Sumiyoshi Taisha, which was popularized in one of Japan’s greatest novels “ The Tale of Genji,” like this curved bridge and pond for example, which are illustrated in the original Tale of Genji.  ( second pic.).
The day I went to this shrine was on a very pleasant Sunday afternoon.   There were some low flying birds soaring  overhead, wings out stretched.   The aroma of grilled  squid  and dumplings filling the air around the entrance was intoxicating for me.  Images of a time long forgotten were evoked in my mind.   Small children playing and screaming merrily around grandpa.  (“ It must’ve been a good day to be a grandpa”).   

A closer look.  Bridge over water leading up to a shrine is commonly found through out Japan, which represent a portal.

By the way, I chose this shrine over Shitennoji, which is the oldest temple in present day Osaka, for esoteric reasons.  I think it can be argued that shinto is purely Japanese, at least more Japanese than temples. 


Two national treasures making their way down the stairs give you an idea of how careful you have to walk in order to go up and own these steps.


Zukuri-style, which is where two beams intersect at the top, is called okichigi , is so Japanese for me.  This is the main hall, or honden in Japanese.

Inner shrine.  Beyond the partitions, where the Kannushi or shinto monk is standing, are the sacred objects, which are kept away in secret from the general public. 


Another example of the cross beams at the top.

An authentic zukuri style shrine, one of the truest symbols of real Japan.  More forked beams.

I also love the ornate designs along the roof’s main beam.  The central beam running the entire length of the roof  has small logs on them called katsuogi, which too is also native to Japan, even predating Buddhist influence.

This beautiful half dog/lion is called Komainu, which is usually found around the entrance of the shrine.  It’s the guardian of the shrine.  Some shrines have half dogs, foxes, or even cats.

This is called a purification trough, and they are usually located at the entrance of the main shrine.  You are supposed to wash your hands and rinse your mouth before entering the main shrine.  The neat thing about Sumiyoshi Taisha is that there are so many of these troughs located on the premises.  I must’ve washed my hands 4 or 5 times.

The tassel hanging from the door is called shimenawa in Japanese, which marks the boundary to something sacred.  This rope also ward off evil spirits.

What you are looking at now is called the Imperial regalia, one of three of the most important sacred tools in shinto.  The mirror in shinto is regarded as the symbol of Amaterasu, Goddess of the sun and ruler of heaven.   The mirror is called kagami.
The other two are the sword and the jewel.

What you are looking at now, above, are what’s called sakaki  tate leaves which are symbolic in Shinto religious practices for display.  Sakaki trees are difficult to find outside of Japan.  For many real Japanese these leaves symbolize an abundance of energy and wholesomeness.
This is Japan.  This is the soul of Japan.

CHIBO: Osaka Style Okonomiyaki

For the record, anywhere you go in Osaka you can eat  delicious  okonomiyaki, but there’re some places that should be visited at least once while in Japan, and  Chibo is one of them.
These delicious Japanese style savory pancakes, among the many favorite kinds of food in Japan, are an all time favorite for many locals and foreigners.  Two prefectures known for having the best okonomiyaki are Hiroshima and Osaka.  Hiroshima has layered style, and Osaka serves battered style. 

In this picture you can see Osaka battered style okonomiyaki – they make it for you.  You can also make it yourself, but this type is especially made here at Chibo.   They load this stuff with pork, pasta, cheese, and seafood!

Finished product

After they cook it, they bring it over to your table and place it on this hot griddle in order to finish the cooking process.  The best okonomiyaki I ever had to be honest.  A good okonomiyaki should be loaded with seafood and pork in my opinion.  Not just one kind of meat.
Another neat thing is this egg dish; pork egg omelet which was given to me on the house for some reason(picture below)

If you are living in Tokyo you can take the Yamanote line to Yurakucho station.  Exit the station and you should see a huge electronics store.  In that building there’s a Chibo restaurant about a 2 minute walk from the station. 
Next up we have Hiroshima Style Okonomiyaki here:

 

Shintenchi Okono Mimura

It is said that when visiting Japan one must visit Hiroshima for its rich history and culture.  Most westerners, especially Japanese, who journey to this part of the country visit such monuments as the Genpaku Dome and the Memorial museum in order to pay respects to the millions of victims, mainly women and children, who were be fallen by America’s atomic bombs.  I too paid my respects, but I did so knowing  how powerful and  how beautiful the Japanese soul is to be able to rise up from the ashes of such devastation.  We know the devil whose hand loosed the atomic bomb on thousands of Japanese women and children.

But these gloomy monuments are not all Hiroshima is famous for, and it shouldn’t be always about macabre scenes in history either.  Hiroshima has so much more to offer the traveler that is brighter and more fun, and by this time my readership should know by now that I have an insatiable desire for culinary delights. 

If there’re two things that Hiroshima is very famous for, it’s okonomiyaki (Japanese hot cake) and oysters ! Hiroshima is perhaps the only place where you can have them both on the same plate; oyster okonomiyaki !  But, there are millions of okonomiyaki shops in Hiroshima, where should you go ? 

Well, let’s go to the heart of Hiroshima’s okonomiyaki district: “Shintenchi Okono Mimura a place that’s practically littered with dozens of great okonomiyaki shops.  So, which one should I try ?  Again, careful research and word of mouth drew me to my conclusion: Henkutsuya which has been in operation since 1947 and was originally a “yatai”(kiosk) style eatery specializing in oyster okonomiyaki. 

Upon entering this shop I was amazed at how many people were in the joint.  There were young people, old people, salary men, and families.  I remember sitting next to a father and son who were enjoying time together; I think maybe the son was home from college for the weekend or something. 

Layered style
This restaurant had a very cozy atmosphere and clean.  And of course the cooking show on display right before your eyes by highly skilled chefs was unforgettable.  I loved this place.  I tried the okonomiyaki with oysters, fantastic.  I think everybody should try it at least once with some mayo. 

This restaurant is only a 3 minute walk from the nearest station; parking by car is not available and service is only available in Japanese.  They are open from 11 to 3a.m. which is fantastic, especially for those late night cravings.  The phone number is: 082-242-8918  The website listing is:
http://rp.gnavi.co.jp/sb/3006934/ in Japanese, but the prices are listed so with a little help you should be able to order with no problem. 

How I Would Entertain Guest in Japan

First,  assume for a moment that nobody really cares whether or not your guests have been to Japan.   So what they went overseas for five days.  And let us also assume that after your guests return back  yonder they show off their pictures to their neighbors , of course the neighbors  won’t  really care because they can’t really relate to your guest’s experience.  They’ll just feign ignorantly on about how wonderful your guest’s pictures are.  It’s not their fault, they’re Westerners.  You get my point?

 

Nevertheless, one of the  best ways to entertain guest in Japan would be to give them a chance to ride on the shinkansen(bullet train), show them Mount Fujii, and if you can, let them take part in a live tea ceremony.   Maybe even give them a chance to see Akihabara.   Don’t take them to temples unless you have to because you have to assume they know absolutely nothing about Japanese history, and if they did  at one point they probably forgot everything.   What’s the use of visiting a temple if  you know nothing of its history, or could care less for that matter, maybe?   Most young Japanese people don’t even care.

 

If time permits I also recommend taking them to places where they can interact with things, like the Iga Ninja museum where they can take pictures with old ninjas, or even learn how to throw stars called しゅりけん（手裏剣）shurikin.  Summer season is usually the best time to for this activity.

 

You could also give  them a chance to dress up like a Maiko or even a Samurai, then take pictures of them and this way they can get a nice laugh when they show their friends at work.  What I’m getting at is that your guest should already have a rudimentary understanding of Japan before they come here.  If they don’t then showing them around is pointless.  How can they appreciate what they can’t appreciate.   I had a best friend come out here.  Nice guy, white guy, New Yoaka, culinary specialist.  However, even with all of his gastronomical knowledge he wasn’t able to fully  appreciate the Japanese palate. 

So here’s the official way I’d entertain guest if I absolutely had to:

1) Food, food, food.  Nothing exotic.  Start off with recognizable favorites from Japan, like tempura, and yakiniku that way they won’t crave something heavier later on.  If their diet changes too soon, coupled with jet lag they’ll enjoy their trip less.  Sometimes McDonald’s is okay for lunch. 

2) Don’t rely on mass transit to get around  Rent a car.  Choose easy routes.  Just jump on the Kanetsu Expressway and ride it out to Niigata.  Show them the backcountry.

3) Don’t do onsen.   Instead take them to Yunneson in Hakone that way they can spend time walking around in swim suits with you.  Remember to try akasuri (あかすり）垢すり, which is called skin peeling in English.   Japan will be the cheapest and most accessible place to get it done.  Everybody has to try akasuri at least once while they’re here!  It’s a must.  I get it twice a year.

4) Take them driving driving driving.  Sometimes people can soak in a lot more of the surroundings when in a car than on foot.

5) Shrines are better to visit because they are less crowded.  Show them how to wash their hands and teach them a little about the shrines history.  Kamakura is the perfect spot for this.

Remember, never forget the wagashi, or Japanese confectionary.  It’s a must that they sit down and appreciate some good wagashi.  Go to an expensive place, not cheap place.

Lastly, and this is a big one.  Remember to take your guest to a real authentic (あかちょうちん 赤提灯 akachochin) or red lantern eatery, which is a place that working-class people can drink inexpensively.  The reason being is that they need to experience the real side of everyday working - class Japanese people.

 

That’s it!

Sexy Shyu 酒( Dreamy Moon Sake)

I believe there’s a sexy Jukujo in every bottle of nihonshu. I mean, you have fragrance, impact, earthiness, and body for starters, and then you have the quality of taste and texture. If there were no Jukujo then sake wouldn’t even exist. There would simply be no meaning. Not even Japan would exist, at least not the way we understand how it exist today.
Today there’re only fragments of Japan left over from a time long gone as displayed from that old busted up clock somewhere on somebody’s dusty chest of drawers. Tired long hand, resting on half past eternity of a dead and forgotten moment in time.
Hope was restored today, though. Her name was Yumetsukiyo or Dreamy Moon a refined sake from Ehime Prefecture, home of Dogo Onsen, cultured pearls and tangerines. She’s a junmai-ginjyo( full rice), and very gentle, yet straightforward. Impact or (Kuchi-atan) is soft with a clean finish. She’s a sweet sake, medium dry, very low acidity. She also has an unassuming presence in the mouth. Not too earthy, just sublte. There is a stubborn sweetness that stays in the mouth, which I like. She’s gorgeous.

In the end you are left with a greater appreciation for sake.
The actress on the video cover is Iwasaki Chitzuru, a famous AV model who has starred in about 4 or 5 really good adult movies where she plays a mother who has an incestuous relationship with her son. She is one of my favorites actresses. I couldn’t think of a better woman to pair with this delicious sake; refined and sweet.
岩崎千鶴 （いわさきちづる）.

Onsen of Nikko

Finally had some time to dig through some of my favorite onsen, so I posted this one.  No, I didn’t write the name.  I am not an onsen advert service.  Names and things pertaining to location and what not I write about in my book, and soon to be second edition.

The feature about this onsen I wanted to explain is the cypress wood and stone bottom.  What a lot of people aren’t aware of is that cypress is extremely slipper when wet, so I was really happy to see green carpet around the sides – excellent safety measure. 

After soaking for a few minutes it’s good to get up and walk around a bit in order to cool down.  This veranda was huge, which offered a small piece of beautiful nature, like this tree.  It’s good to appreciate the little things.

The simple pleasure of a simple tree from a simple minded Japan(ist).  Wood, earth, water, sky.  A lovely balance.

Tenpei: The King of Gyoza

Delectable dumplings; gyoza from heaven; the best of the best according to the locals.   The King of Gyoza.  Welcome to Tenpei!
Okay, so, I’ve eaten gyoza in China, Taiwan, and at many Chinatowns through-out Japan and in the States, too, so that gives me a little experience, no?   I love gyoza.  I’ve even dined at the best of the best gyoza joints in Utsunomiya; five to be exact,and Utsunomiya is considered the capital of gyoza in Japan by many food geeks.. 

All of the gyoza I have had up to now have all been excellent.  I can’t pick a favorite.  But,  one things for sure, Osaka style hitokuchi gyoza is to die for(ひとくち・一口bit sized gyoza).  Sure, you can find these kinds of gyoza all over Osaka, but none with as long a history as Tenpei in Kitashinchi which has been around since Showa 30(1955).  This is a local favorite by all standards, and what that means is that it’s hard to find and off the beaten track.  Only a few old timers knew where this place was which happened to be down a dark and damp alley – it was midnight when I was trying to find my way there.
It took me a week to research about good eats around Osaka.  I scoured through dozens of SNS sites, food magazines and people who have been to Osaka.  Finally, on my way to work I picked up this month’s edition of Dancyu(Japanese food magazine) which was packed with all kinds of recommendations for good eats around Tokyo and Kanagawa.   And then, on the last page I found Tenpei of Osaka!  Strange.  Of all the recommendation around my area there was a listing for one or two gyoza places in Osaka; Tenpei was one of them.
I picked up the phone and made a reservation in Japanese, the lady at the other end acknowledge me and arranged a table for me right in front at the bar counter.  It was so cool.  When you order they role the gyoza right there in front of you to see – no pre-made gyoza.  

Jukujo arms – sorry

I wasn’t allowed to get too close as the atomosphere was a bit somber and I didn’t want to seem intrusive.  It was rare to see a foreigner there, maybe.  I think I was the first they said.  For me, these places serve up the best food in my opinion.  I care nothing about the atmosphere.  For me, only the food matters and most times it’s the conservative joints that offer up the best eats.

Crispy one bite sized gyoza! 

Nice tall one to go along with it, too.

I ate 20!  The first words out of my mouth were crispy, crispy, crispy.  Wow.  I loved these little bite sized gyoza.  The pork and other secret ingredients was excellent.  Most gyoza have a lightly crispy bottom, these were the same but more crispy because they were smaller than the usual gyoza.  I fell in love with these.  I had to fight not to order another serving.  N.B. standard gyoza is roughly about 4 inches in length and roughly 2 inches in width.  Hitokuchi gyoza is about 1 to 2 inches in length and girth – just to compare.

They stay open all night, closed on Sunday.  Kitashinchi is a bit far from the main areas of Shinsaibashi and Dotonburi.  Be prepard to walk and get lost.  Check the link.   This gyoza gets the highest marks in my book as being delicious and simple. 
No English is spoken and there are no menus available in neither English nor Japanese.   You just order “gyoza.”

Osaka Street Scenes

Just outside my hotel last night in Shinsaibashi I saw some low riders blasting their speakers West coast style.  This was all taking place at around 3am!  I couldn’t complain though, the music was good and the system they were using was also very good.

It’s amazing how well the emulate the L.A.  subculture.   

Some of the cars on show were old favorites, like the Impala and the Cadillac.  And I love Cadillacs. 

One point I want to make is that, most low rider crews in Kanagawa where I live are not popular with the ladies    Most young  girls from that part of Japan, and even in Tokyo would never be caught riding around in these types of cars.   Not the case in Osaka, though.   I was so surprised to see so many incredibly beautiful women riding around with their boyfriends in these gangster type cars.   I actually felt good about that.  Out where I’m living there are so many single Japanese male and females it’s a shame.   Just last week I saw three grown as men riding on one bicycle together, and on a weekend when they should’ve been out with girls.

 

The dating scene in Osaka is alive and well, and I was so surprised to see so many young Japanese couples.   The energy was so open and carefree.  I could really feel the soul of Japan out there.  Young people drink nihonshu and really enjoy their life in Japan – home.  Very different from Yokohama.