Signature Rice of Yamagata: Hainuki

I have been rice tasting for years in Japan because I feel rice is an essential grain not only for Japanese cuisine, but also nihonshu.

A few of my big favorites are Milky Queen, which is grown in few different prefectures in Japan. The one in the above link is organically grown in Toyama prefecture. Another one of my favorites is Sasanishiki rice. On that link there’s an excellent write-up on how to grade and taste rice. Another Sasanishiki from Akita prefecture is here.

Then there’s this rice called “Hito Me Bore” which can be picked up at almost any major retailer you go to now. This rice is a big favorite of mine, actually I prefer this one over Koshihikari, King of Kings when it comes to rice, because I believe that the growers of Hito Me Bore have better quality control mechanisms in place than Koshihikari. My reasoning is simple. it’s a well known fact that Japan doesn’t grow enough rice annually to feed the entire population, and growing a premium rice like Koshihikari cost more money to grow on a larger scale than most rice. As a result some farmers have come under scrutiny for mixing their rice in order to meets unreasonably strict quotas for rice production. In the case of Hito Me Bore, not many people know about it, thus smaller farmers can grow and package it and sell it direct.

Another great rice is which hails from Hokkaido is called Nanatsuboshi and is especially cultivated to grow under extreme conditions during Hokkaido’s bitter cold winters. It’s a sturdy strong rice grain with good hardiness and flavor.

Lastly, the sake for this post I am using is called Hainuku, a rice grain grown exclusively in Yamagata. If you like something that’s got great tooth stickiness then I recommend this grain. You may need to experiment a little, but when pouring the normal amount of water in the rice cooker, you may want to add a half a cup more water than you would regularly add to regular non-brand name rice.

Hainuki rice has a good firm texture and is a bit stickier than most rice I have cooked. Still a very nice and hardy rice that complements beef or chicken dishes well.

The rice grain. A bit smaller than average rice grains.

Test tasting with nice and hot premium marbled fatty beef cuts and a little pork.

Hot rice and fatty beef go so well together. They were made for each other!

Yu Ho From Ishikawa Prefecture!

Yu Ho ! from Ishikawa Originally uploaded by McAlpine Alexander

This is a very special junmai Ginjo sake which hails from Ishikawa prefecture. The original owner of this brewery died just recently leaving his daughter to run the business. She(Miho) and the manager put their heads together and worked very hard to make a new sake for the spring of '07. This sake, according to her, is best paired with milk chocolate! That's quite a rare recommendation if you ask me. The sake is wonderful as I have a bottle! (N.B. this is an older post from 2007. I spent three hours fighting Tokyo traffic just to reach the only liquor store in Tokyo that sold it, and when I got there only one bottle was left). Now, 2009 the sake is gaining wide spread popularity not only in Japan but abroad!

Blue Heaven

Sōkū Jukusei Junmai nama. Sōkū meaning “blue sky.”

I ordered this sake out of curiosity because another sake enthusiast, Ichibay, turned me on to it. He also mentioned about a mother rice grain varietal that was used to help develop Yamada Nishiki, which is a premium rice used for brewing high end sake. And then after doing some careful searching around I found someone else who did an excellent write up on this sake, but on another version of it written here by the Madame

My take on this nihonshu was one of amazement. Very smooth and delightfully soft on the palate filling the whole mouth, almost like cotton candy, very light nose and good overall texture and balance.

I’ve been imbibing on this sake for a couple of days now and have noticed that the flavor wanes just a bit, but that could be a good thing for some people who may find something else in the sake.

I am definitely interested in following up with the brewer on all of their new releases this Autumn, and would recommend this sake to anybody.

The sake cup of choice is one with a gold Japanese military star in the center. This is a rare sake cup sold by Rich over at his site here. With every good sake there’s a good cup.

Houraisen of Aichi Prefecture

From Aichi Prefecture. Junmai Dai Ginjo.

Houraisen

According to True Sake

This "Ultra" Dai Ginjo (40%) that was cold aged for 2 1/2 years has a meaty nosed filled with rich fruit, rice, and hint of banana elements. Welcome to the "anti" Dai Ginjo that is not fruity and silly, rather it is a deep and expansive brew that has as much attitude as the fish on the label. Crisp and bright, yet round and plump - how did they do that? It is a semi-chewy brew with complex layers of flavors such as caramel, plums, figs, raisins, and a full-bodied acidity that rounds out the incredibly regal mouthful. If you like a Dai Ginjo with attitude and long finish that is robust and beefy reel this fish into your glass.

WORD: Rich WINE: Deep reds/Huge whites BEER: Huge ales FOODS: Complex cuisines, pate, cheese courses, smoked game. $120/720ml

I would like to expand a little more with my personal opinion: The Kuchi-atari (first taste) is explosive....rich fruit(nothing specific)....very strong lingering presents in the mouth spreading through-out every nook and cranny of your palate....just about what's considered neutral on the SMV at plus 3, so it has a pleasant sweetness....mild acidity.

The sake cup used is sold and distributed by Rich, a fully licensed antiques dealer, over at his site called Japanese Imperial Sake Cups. The cup you see is one of kind with a helmet, flag, and cherry blossom.

And the 熟女 best paired with this sake would be this beauty since the name of the label is called “angry fish” in English. I though no better choice than to pair this sake with an samurai milf.

The Tokugawa Art Museum

I grew up hating museums because I saw no point in looking at meaningless objects uncased in glass boxes. A few decades ago, though, on vacation in Washington D.C., I visited the capital where I saw another object, but one of great admiration which was also encased in a helium sealed glass box; that object was called The Bill of Rights. Indeed I was impressed because in school I was taught so much about this document and then seeing it there right before my eyes was a sight to behold. I changed and grew to love museums. North America has a treasure trove of excellent museums, especially local ones. My interest in museums grew by leaps and bounds as I began traveling through-out West Asia(Turkey), some parts of Europe, Korea,Taiwan, and finally Japan.

My fascination with museums ultimately lead me to Japan where museums abound plentifully in just about every nook and cranny of every small town, city, and major metropolis. No city is without a national or local museum, or gallery of some sort. There's a story to be told no matter where you set foot in Japan and this is partly why I think so many people move here and fall in love with this country. I think it's a pity, though, that so much of this country's art works goes under appreciated, like the Tokugawa Art Museum near downtown Nagoya for example.

The museum opened in 1935 and houses many priceless pieces of art, furnishings, armor, and garments from centuries ago when Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo Shogunate, ruled Japan. The entire collection amounts to over ten thousand items! In particular it boasts nine items designated National Treasures, including the world-famous twelfth-century Illustrated Tale of Genji, fifty-five objects designated Important Cultural Properties, and forty-four art works selected as Important Art Objects.

The museum has 9 exhibition rooms: Symbol of the Warrior( Swords and Armor), The Practice of Tea( A Daimyo Tea Room), Formal Chamber of a Daimyo's Residence, Daimyo Patronage of Noh Theater, Objects and furnishings of Elegant Living, The Flowering of the Courtly Tradition(The Illustrated Tale of Genji). Rooms 7,8,9, are special exhibition rooms that change in order to reflect the seasons or some kind of other artworks. My favorite exhibition room was #1 Swords and Armor.

If you take your time strolling through the museum then you can probably cover everything in about 3 hours.... General information about the museum is as follows: Opening Hours are from 10am to 5pm closed every Monday except Mondays when there is are National Holidays then closed on the following Tuesday. Also closed between late December and the New Year period. Admissions is 1200 yen for adults students(high school and university) 700 yen. Students (elementary and junior high school) 500 yen.

Getting there is not too bad. Take the JR Chuo Line bound for "Tajimi" and get off at "Ozone" Station (Minami-guchi or South Exit). 10 minute walk to Tokugawean( a Japanese garden is adjacent to the main museum). Contact number of this museum is 052-935-6262

Final notes. This museum is a must for anybody interested in the Edo Shogunate. I'd even go as far as to advice visiting here first before the castle. I'd also recommend making the museum an entire day trip because of the sheer size of the place. The only negative is no photography is permitted, other than that this is a great museum with an excellent souvenir shop located in the atrium.

Coffee With Hideki Tojo’s Grave Keeper

Situated atop Mt.Sangane, at a remotely located shrine deep in Aichi, is one of three places where Hideki Tojo's ashes are interred, along with seven other (so-called) war criminals. I visited this venerated site yesterday to have coffee with a good friend of mine who has been the caretaker of this site for nearly forty years. I was met by him and his lovely wife and together we chatted it up over a nice cup of coffee after arranging white flowers on all the epitaphs and tombstones. I took a few pictures when everything was done.

Tojo's ashes were divided between three locations; Yasukuni Shrine, Zoshigaya Cemetery,and Hazu, Aichi. The town of Hazu with its population of 12,000 doesn't list the exact whereabouts of his grave site, which I think it should,actually. According to MacAuthur's orders the remains were to be scattered and placed in unmarked graves, but thankfully this didn't entirely happen. MacAuthor is dead now and as such everything he had mandated should be turned over, burned and forgotten, even the current day Japanese constitution. It's a new day and Japan needs a new direction starting with a new constitution and a new mandate. ( the picture on the wall is a photo he took of Tojo and his family)
(pictured below on the phone he was expecting 8 guest from somewhere to discuss business related to Tojo. At this point it was time for me to  head back to Nagoya).


There was a slight overcast with thick fog the day I drove up there. The long winding mountain road was looking a bit eerie that afternoon with no visible signs or landmarks in sight. I was all alone on that road trip. I left the gf back in Nagoya. After I reached the top of the mountain the navigation on my car was no longer able to transmit data; the "no data" sign kept flashing on and off the screen and then the whole screen just went blank. No signs and nobody around for miles and miles it seemed. I managed to flag down what appeared to be a construction worker for some assistance. He pointed the way and told me to be careful on the road heading up that way because there are no signs leading to  Tojo's memorial.


After reaching my turn I drove down a very steep hill. All I could see at this point, as I was driving, were faint images of trees and a narrow concrete road in poor condition. Suddenly a small van came into view as I pulled up closer to the entrance. I parked next to it, got out and looked around a bit.

First thing I noticed was a huge monument with inscriptions written upon it of the men whose lives were sacrificed for the whole nation - I knew I was in the right place then. I turned my head and saw a long flight of stairs leading up to a huge grave stone, so I approached closer and saw a man standing there watering the nearby flowers. I climbed the stairs and approached even closer. He greeted me in English with a beautiful smile and asked me where I was from. I told him "America." His gaze suddenly fell to the ground. It was as if the very life was sucked out of his body when I said the word "America." He continued about his business as if I didn't even exist. Sensing this abrupt loss of conviviality I proceeded to make my way around the other parts of this very small cemetery.


There were so many generals who had to accept their fate upon the alter of sacrifice for so little in return from such an ungrateful people and white worshippers.

One thing that stood out amongst the many monumental tombstones was a airplane engine far off in a patch of grass out of plain view. As I stood there trying to figure out how it got there that same guy approached me from behind.  He had explained to me that the engine was from an American B-29 bomber that was shot down somewhere around Shizuoka. Now, I have a faint recollection of a story about a bomber that was shot down around that area sixty ago. If my memory services me correctly those pilots were summarily executed by beheading - not sure if there were any survivors.


In my opinion the pilots got what they deserved for even attempting a strike of this magnitude on a civilian population. These bomber pilots were/are still criminals in my book and they were tried accordingly.   Afterwards, this gentleman invited me to his house for coffee. I accepted his invitation and we drove together to his place where I met his lovely wife. She brought out some coffee and some sweets for us to enjoy while overlooking the panoramic scenes from his balcony of the Hacho plains and hilly areas.

Not sure if this is relevant or not, but there was a very tiny sick little black kitten resting in a cage on the floor. It was receiving special care by them because it wasn't able to live amongst the rest of the kitty litter. It was initially startled by my presence and hissed(no noise came out because it was still too young and little) at me, baby nails extended as far as they could extend.


The surrounding areas around Sangane Mountains are all so very quiet and peaceful. There is so much lush greenery and flora all over the place. Most of the mountainous area is unspoiled and peaceful, so maybe it's a good thing that this area is not listed. For awhile I thought I should write down specific instructions on how to get here, but in order to keep this place sacred, some things are better left kept as they are. There's no need to advertise this place. I like it this way best. I hope I am the last foreigner to visit here.


A couple more pics. Other pictures will be posted on flickr.

Dinner Tonight: Yamachan’s of Nagoya

Lovely.  Just lovely. A mound of crispy fried wings perfectly seasoned with salt and special miso in downtown Nagoya.  No better way to start off your holiday in Nagaya than to eat these delicious wings.

The second picture is three servings of wings.

Premium malt beer to wash it all down. 

Shrimp plate with cabbage and mayonnaise.  Very nice and tasty.

These were nice.  Porked wrapped on a stick that’s dipped in Nagoya’s famous red miso paste.  Everything cost me around 3900 yen all together.

Seta Onsen of Tokyo

Seta Onsen

Located in the suburbs of Tokyo amidst concrete and old wooden buildings there's this really nice spa that was introduced to me by someone very special. A spa that not only is replete with just about everything you need for a nice relaxing afternoon, but also conveniently located just a few miles from city center, which is good for those who don't have a car. For me, I drove there and much to my chagrin the parking cost me 2000 yen, roughly the same price you pay for admissions to the spa itself – even after my ticket was validated. But aside from that I still recommend people try the place at least once.

Upon entering the spa I immediately noticed how clean the facility was; clean floors, everything was neatly organized. At the front desk staff perfunctorily handed out keys and maps while paying little attention to customers faces, I guess for them getting customers is a routine thing so I guess it wouldn't be exciting wearing the same smile over and over again. I guess it would become a bit mundane if you had to smile and greet all day, but then again this is Japan, but then again maybe it's changing whether I like it or not.

Like many spas, Seta Onsen has a massage corner, aesthetics salon, snack bar and a game corner. But the two thing that stuck in my memory the most were its delicious food and its incredible onsen water. Seta pumps out 400 liters of onsen water a minute at 46 degrees centigrade. The water has a heavy mineral content with about 12 different herbs and natural compounds which are reputed for their curative affects for a myriad of skin disorders and or diseases of the body. The water is also salty and astringent on the skin so don't sit too long, get up and walk around a bit to cool off.

Not only is Seta good for the solo traveler, but is also good for couples, too. Having several outdoor baths a couple, wearing bathing suits, can enjoy a nice relaxing time together overlooking Tokyo's skyline, and on a good clear day Mount Fujii can be seen right from the outdoor bath itself.

Another nice thing is that there's plenty of space. You don't get that crowded feeling that you experience at most spas. There's plenty of space with large baths and excellent atmosphere.

For 2300 yen, discounted on weekday mornings to 1700, you can use this onsen all day. Another great thing I noticed about this spa is the relaxation room, it's huge. There are a plethora of cots and sleepers that you can sleep on and aside from the occasional snorer you can get a great rest, and I don't mean overnight rest. Just a nice siesta for a few hours. Some English is spoken and their website is

www.setaonsen.co.jp Phone number is 03-3707-8228. From Futamagawa you can take the free shuttle every 15 minutes.

Takatomo Onsen 高友旅館

Cradled in the mountainous backbone of Tohoku, in a tiny town called Naruko, is a hotel  located entirely within the Kurikoma Quasi-National Park.  The hotel where I stayed at on the first night was one I'll never forget. Out of all the onsen ryoukans in Tohoku this little rustic inn was rated # 3 for having the best onsen. Actually, if you research this hotel you'll find that on just about every website that this onsen water is rated 5 out of 5 for mineral content! And that the rest of the accommodations are rated at 2 and 3 for the quality of the room.  

 

Every room comes with a Kitchenette but the rooms and facilities are very old and dirty.  Not the kind of place you take some one who’s accustomed to world-class hotels.  People who come to this kind of hotel are only interested in this mineral rich brownish onsen water, not the conveniences of a 21 Century luxury onsen hotel.

This was also the first time I had ever tried this kind of water which according to Japanese is a black water onsen黒湯. This ryoukan is famous for exactly just that; black hot mineral saturated water. I think the temperature was a little over 46 degrees Celsius. It took a lot of fortitude to adjust myself to that temperature.  I want to return someday.  I love the old rooms and the little kitchenette. 

Haiku poet master Matsuo Basho passed through this area on his quest for greatness on his masterwork about Tohoku.

Lake Mashu of Hokkaido

Lake Mashu was a nice memory for me.  I can remember how cold it was.  I love the cold weather. 

There is no river flowing in or out of it and the water level never changes!  The lake has a transparency of of about 14m.

Lake Kussharo of Hokkaido

This entire lake is one big gigantic mineral hot spring, so to speak...It’s a hot spring without the heat, so just a source mineral spring from deep under the lake.  If you come in March or Feb. you can see ice rise up from the lake creating huge noises! 

Lake Toya

Lake Toya (Toyako) is part of the Shikotsu-Toya National Park in Hokkaido. Besides this beautiful lake, the area offers hiking, fishing and camping , as well as hot springs and close up views of one of Japan's most active volcano's, Mount Usu (Usuzan), which  erupted a few years back in 2000.
I actually enjoyed this campsite the most since I had started camping in Japan a few years back. 

Top Stops Along the Joetsu Shinkansen

There are four trains that run from Tokyo to Niigata: Max Toki, Max Tanigawa, Toki, and the Tanigawa. The total trip from both stations is about two hours. The stations starting from Tokyo are as follows: Ueno,Omiya,Kumagaya, Honjowaseda, Takasaki, Jomo-Kogen,Echigo-Yuzawa, Urasa, Nagaoka, Tsubamesanjo, and the last stop Niigata!



Now, if you have a car and prefer to drive then I highly recommend taking the Kanetsu Expressway. You don't want to miss out on an opportunity to drive through the Kanetsu Tunnel, the longest and most used tunnel in Japan! I think it's also the longest and most technologically advanced tunnel in the world. Before this tunnel was built, the average commute time around this mountain range was about 4 hours! Now it only takes less than 30 minutes to get through.  Not everybody has a car though, so the train is the next best option.  I've tried both.  By train you you give up a lot of scenery because of the speed at which you'd be traveling.   Everything is just a blur from the window.



Before I plunge in, let me make a quick mention about Takasaki station, the sixth stop on this line. First off, this is a major major connection stopover for about nine different lines!  In other words, a regional transportation hub. Here is the list: Joetsu Line, Shinetsu Line, Takasaki Line, Nagano Shinkansen, Joetsu Shinkansen, Hachiko Line, Agatsuma Line, Joshin Line, Ryomo Line.  People in transit from all over Japan stop over at this station juncture to make their connections, and then continue on to their destination.


The train station itself is located in Gunma, and is ran by JR East.   Gunma is one of my favorites prefectures, too! I love the onsen, the food, girls and it's the home of Yasuhiro Nakasone, former prime minister. Let me also not forget the Daruma Doll!  I want to post pics but won't this time around.



As we move along this line after passing Kumagaya and Honjowaseda, then past Takasaki, if you have a chance to get off there then do, and moving along past Jomo-Kogen to a big stop called Echigo-Yuzawa, you finally start to get a taste of the Hokuriku region of Japan.  Now this station for me is the station of all stations on this line because there's a real 100% onsen in the station that has nihonshu added to it! But be forewarned the water is extremely hot.    Last time I took a dip in that bath it was about 45degrees centigrade.   If you are a seasoned dipper like me then this temperature is not too bare able.  


Generally people prefer to sit in water that's at around 37 degrees centigrade, which is about body temperature. After a nice dip, head over to the sake tasting room. Give the attendent a thousand yen, she/he will give you ten tokens in return. Walk around and sample over one hundred different sake for every one token. Afterwards, you can head over to the souvenir shop and purchase a designer sake cup and some delicious nihonshu cake with gold pieces in them. It's like a Disneyland for sake related products. If you would rather eat out, then just across the street there is a place called Fukuan, which specializes in Soba and delicious tempura, and of course delicious sake! If you would like a nicer and more relaxing onsen experience then I recommend Hotel Sporea which is very near by the way. You can walk there from the station, but I recommend a taxi if you feel a bit nervous.



Of course skiing is always wonderful up here also. You have the GALA Yuzawa Snow Resort, which is 800m above sea level and is connected directly to the station. Two different stations. GALA YUZAWA STATION can be reached from Echigo Yuzawa Station via the Gala Yuzawa line. (1.8km)
Passing Urasa station, as we climb further up in elevation to our next stop is Nagaoka. I love this part of Niigata for a few good reasons. One the love hotels are very cheap and very nice. The chain sushi shops sell the freshest catches. I mean real generous portion sizes of sushi as well as an assorted array of seasonal catches. I'm never disappointed when I come to this area. I always love camping up around here as well. And in the daytime, usually by reservation only, you can tour a few really good sake brewery's. Nagaoka is also home to some exceptionally delicious sake. If you can spend a day up here just hanging around I would.


Next fantastic stop is Tsubamesanjo station, which connects to the Yahiko Line that was named after a small isolated rural village called Yahiko Village.    Nice if you want to experience something different.


Now the only reason I stopped through Tsubamesanjo was because of one very famous sushi shop, no other reason. The shop is called Tsubame-sushi-ya san, and it's very popular with the locals. Here the lines were very long, the longest I could remember from any other sushi shop. One thing I noticed was at how warm the fish were. The sushi guy was pulling the fish right out of the crates they were shipped in and cutting them right there in front us. The fish had no time to be iced at all, some were still moving. I ordered the chef's special and boy what a treat that was. I had never eaten fish that fresh before in my life! And the sake! Ooh, god! Very cold nama sake produced by Kirinzan. Two pics are at the bottom.


The last and final stop along this line is Niigata station and from here you can connect to Echigo Line, Shinetsu Line, Hakushin Line, Ban-etsu-West Line. This is the best all around station in terms of convenience I think. They have a Toyuku Inn attached alongside the station which came in handy when I missed my last stop back to Fukushima. There are many restaurants and souvenir shops here also.

Saving the Soul of Japan: Leaders

Yasuhiro Nakasone who was elected the 71st prime minister of Japan in November of 82’ and who was also a known nationalist and, first prime minister to visit Yasukuni Shrine, was affectionately known as “Ron-Yasu” because of his close relationship with the late Ronald Reagan, the 40th President of the United States. (the American president who repealed almost every Civil Right initiative set forth in the 20th Century).

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Mr. Nakasone and Mr. Obuchi shared many of the same initiatives; improving relations with the then USSR and improving the economy. There was also Mishima and Abe but they were both out of touch with the people, yet they were focused on reviving the Soul of Japan – both failed miserably. And then we had Obuchi and Nakasone who were both in touch with the people, and who were both nationalist who too both failed to revive the soul of Japan; two who were quite unrealistic and two who were quite realistic, but all of them failed to revive the Soul of a Nation. And then we had Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi who visited Yasukuni Shrine( enshrined judicial martyrs) six times while in office and even he failed to revive the soul of Japan which leads me to a dead end.

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What is the Soul of Japan? Or was there ever one to begin with? How does one define the Soul of a nation? Calling the emperor by his true name; teaching patriotism in schools; singing the national anthem; visiting the shrine…all of these things wherefore are the Japanese people? Is it not enough that an overwhelming majority of Japanese oppose everything I just listed above, and yet at the same time they can call themselves proud Japanese!? Is there something intrinsic about being a Japanese? Is it the martial spirit?

Top Stops Along the Yamagata Shinkansen

The Tsubasa or Yamagata Shinkansen travels from Tokyo to Shinjo in 3 hrs. and 39 minutes. Starting from Tokyo the stations are as follows: Ueno, Omiya, Utsunomiya, Koriyama, Fukushima, Yonezawa, Takahata, Akayu, Kaminoyama-Onsen, Yamagata, Tendo, Sakurambohigashine, Murayama, Oishida, and finally Shinjo.


There are several things I absolutely love about Yamagata: great sake, delicious food, therapeutic onsen, cherries, and its signature rice called Hainuki. When not using the Tsubasa, the local JR lines are just as nice because you get a chance to take in the views of all the rural farm lands as well as the seasons.


But, allowed me to list up my favorite stops along this line.
After you reach Yonezawa station, which connects you to two major lines; the Ou Line and the Yunesaka Line. Yonezawa is a city famed for its Beef. You can also enjoy a delicious Yamagata style station bento lunch replete with local favorites from this area. The station is small, but accommodating. On the second floor you can shop for souvenirs and clothes. There's a bento & deli on the first floor selling some of the coolest bento boxes around.

I wouldn't spend too much time there though because if you exit the station and cross the main intersection, there's only one, you will come to a brown traditional looking building which makes the bentos that are sold in the station.

Once you exit that store just across the street on your left hand side you'll see a steak shop on the corner that specializes in Yonezawa style beef. If you are around there during lunch I highly recommend stopping through for a gorgeous lunch with some beer.


Next stop worthy of mention after Takahata is Akayu Station, which connects you to the Yamagata Tetsudo. Now this city doesn't have much to offer, but what it does have is good good spicy ramen. People from far and wide come here just for the ramen and then leave. A lot of locals visit this place year round and the lines are always ridiculously long.



After we pass Kaminoyama-Onsen we head to the main JR Yamagata station, and from here you can transfer to three lines; Ou Line, Aterazawa Line, and Senzan Line. These are very rural lines that take you deep into the backbone of Yamagata. The real reason, however, for choosing this station is because the volcanic formations around this volcanic area and majestic mountains stretching 36 km. This place is called the Zao Mountain Range, and it is here that you can enjoy some of the best skiing in Japan from mid-January to late February. In addition to great skiing you can enjoy the snow monsters.



Next up is Tendo station, and it is here you can enjoy some authentic style soba, Yamagata style. People in this region of Japan occasionally take trips down to this area to eat traditional hand rolled soba. Not like you can’t find this anywhere else in Japan, it’s just that up here it feels different because this is what people do everyday day in and day out for 30 or 40 years or so.


The stop next is Sakurambohigashine Station, and if you come between early June and early July you can sample world class premium cherries that look like bright red rubies! Cherry Orchards abound in this part of Japan and is well known by many food geeks like myself. By the way, the Ou Line connects to all of these station starting from Yonezawa to Shinjo, so if you want to take a slower route so that you can enjoy the sights then I recommend the Ou Line.


Riding all the way up past two minor station, Murayama and Oishida, we reach are final destination, Shinjo, and here’s the place that’s regarded in the top 5 best soba shops in all of Japan Nekakuya!
Sake of choice chosen for me with this soba, and came highly recommended was this Shonai Homare nama!

I could probably go on and on about more recommendation, but these are the basic ones.
Enjoy.

The West vs. Shumei Okawa

True Story:

It was slight overcast morning when those judicial martyrs were ushered into that hot and stuffy court room. I could almost imagine through history's eye; as Mr. Okawa sat there, throat choked up with nervous anxiety. His face showing visible signs of tardive dyskinesia. He flinched as each of the charges were being read out by Judge Webb in front of a packed all white courtroom. Mr.Okawa finally cracked under the sheer enormity of the charges that were being leveled against him and his comrades. He was quickly ushered out of the courtroom, hospitalized, served a short two year stint behind bars and was released into society as a normal citizen and acquitted of all war crimes.

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( "If you were any other nationality from any other non-Western country other than Anglo-America and you were in that courtroom that day then you were considered white by default - it was an Anglo Court").

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Truman couldn't have anointed and appointed a better class act than Keenan, chief prosecutor during the trial, to find nothing but guilt for the man I'm about to write about. Keenan, who served under two presidents, and a former soldier himself was nothing more than a patriot a puppet and a pen pusher who specialized in budgetary duties for the Truman administration. The verdict was decided before the courts were even convened, as far as the status quo was concerned, and also because Keenan would undoubtedly never disagree with Truman. The American courts had no legal jurisdiction nor precedents to hold a trial on Japanese soil in the first place.

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So why is Mr. Okawa being mentioned here on my blog? Not very many Japanese and Westerners alike can understand this conservative, and sometimes flamboyant man. Neither can I, but even his existence had some merit for the Japanese; being the grand architect and brain behind Japan's brutal expansionist policies through-out East Asia. A highly educated man, a man who worked towards a greater vision of Asian unity and greater co- prosperity among his neighbors - this also included Muslim nations in West Asia as well.

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This doctrine of unity was called Pan-Asianism which was inherently designed in order to tip the balance of power in favor of Asian nations and to liberate these nations from the sphere of Western influence in the world. Before he died he Mr. Okawa managed to successfully translate the entire Quran into Japanese, the first Japanese to ever accomplish such a feat

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Many people claim that he faked his illness in order to not stand trial. It is also widely believed that he thought the Tokyo Trials was a farce After his release he didn't run and hide from his commitment to make Japan better for the Japanese, and for Asia. He made many efforts to repair relations with China regardless if no progress was made. Modern day leaders of Japan today lack a tremendous amount of commitment to the cause of bettering Japan for the Japanese. There's no direction, no pure leadership model. All of the really upstanding Japanese have all died.

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The United States had to prosecute hundreds of Japanese soldiers for crimes against humanity and peace on the basis of "international law" that it interpreted to mean justice for all. Were these laws subject to interpretation? Some call it victors justice, while others call it vindication for Japan's brutal expansionist policies through-out China, Burma, and even as far as Australia. If these charges had to be prosecuted, then why couldn't a neutral court have been appointed, like the Hague Court for example.... ? Weren't these international crimes?

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I truly believe that the sanctity of the law has to apply evenhandedly to all human beings regardless of race, religion, or creed. The Tokyo Trials was a test of this sanctity and the laws used to govern and judge the acts of human beings. The law that day failed because it was impartial to the West's interpretation of the law, and none other. America answers to nobody, yet they condemn everybody all with the stroke of a pen, Britain was no better with its London Charter at Nuremberg. Hitler and Goering never allowed such a ridiculous Western court to prosecute them, especially after laws were created that didn't even exist prior to crimes committed, then used those same laws to try Japanese soldiers.

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Japan of today needs to work together with its neighbors in order to develop a better form of co-prosperity, one that's not influenced and dictated by Western powers. Japan needs to write laws and revise an outdated constitution that have the interest of the Japanese at heart.

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Democracy has not yielded any fruit in this country in the last 60 years, and not in the foreseeable future I predict either. Millions of Americans voted for a non-Anglo President, a first in American history. Japan and its neighbors need to respect each others needs and laws, and most of all borders. Of course, some sharing would go along way too.

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Shumei Okawa, a man who was fluent in five languages, traveled extensively and learned a great deal about other Asians and cultures before tackling the challenges that faced his own country. He wasn't obsessed with the West like so many of his brothers and sisters are today. Where is the commitment to the cause of Japan and its people today!?

Top Stops Along The Akita Shinkansen

My favorite stops along the Komachi takes you from Tokyo to Akita in about four hours! Starting from Tokyo, the stations are as follows: Ueno, Omiya, Sendai, Morioka, Shizukuishi, Tazawako, Kakunodate, Omagari, and the final stop is Akita. I have personally been to 9 of these stations myself. So what's good and when is the best time to ride the Komachi. I say spring, since it's that time of the year where cherry blossoms bloom. Also, there's still snow up around this area through March!


For starters, again, from Tokyo Station get a deluxe super bento box. A nice beer would be great also. Tokyo station has dozens of delicious bento places where you can buy something very unique for your journey. Ueno station offers about the same thing. Omiya station has nothing to offer, except an American pharmacy selling everything from Dove soap to Pepto-bismo. Other then that, there's nothing noteworthy about this station.




Sendai is good. In Sendai you can try beef tongue. After this station you have Morioka, the capital city of Iwate. Just the history alone would warrant a stop here. The history of the Emishi people and culture is fascinating. Next stop is Shizukuishi, which is known for its great snow. Shizukuishi Ski Area is about 15 minutes by car from Shizukuishi station. There're plentiful course variations for enjoyment by beginners to experts.


My next big favorite is Tazawako. I especially love this area because of the great camping and great onsen. I spent about a week up here.

Tsurunoyu Onsen


Kiritanpo, smashed rice that’s formed into these cylinder shaped sticks then dipped in this deliciously thick shoyu paste/sauce. Awesome in a stick!
Another favorite stop along this route is Kakunodate, a castle town lined with samurai residences of the Edo period and cherry blossom trees.



Kakunodate is the kind of place many Japanese dream of coming to once in their life; at least before they die. I was impressed with the sites, sounds, and flavors of this part of Japan.


Next station is Omagari, and then the stop after is Akita. Now, here in the city you may not be too impressed. But know this, there’re some excellent little izekaya’s around here. Anywhere you eat here you can have an excellent experience. One notable sake from this region is called Taiheizan! And it’s cold brewed. There are other greats, but this one is a must.

Mayu’s Legs

Have you ever sat on the warm place a beautiful Japanese woman just indented on the trains narrow seat? “He gave her a hug, you were great too, you still have “dickie”** to do. If I could undo it all I would. Where would you begin? There was no place. Giving him courage. He lies down on the passenger seat in the car. Synthetic fabric of the car seat warmed by his cheek confided in him an ancient distant scent of vanilla" (John Updike 1932).

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I make it a good habit to sit in many warm places whether it be on a train or in a bus, especially on hot and humid days where less dressed is best. From these warm places I gain inspiration and insight, and most of all enlightenment of the subject. Just the other day on the train, a young mother sat across from me. A picture perfect beauty, with her fair skin and toned thighs. Far too busy with her make-up to worry about me or anyone else for that matter. Her stop finally came, she got off, I moved over and sat in her warm indented seat. My imagination ran wild. “Wow!” I said to myself. My nose was immediately greeted by a scent of spring flowers and lemon grass. What healing. I savored the moment for as long as I could until my toes curled. My stop came and I got off.

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Exiting the ticket gate I was met by my new squeeze named Mayu;23; from Yamakita in Kanagawa; fair tofu skinned; perfect breast; tree trunk thighs. I met her in a supermarket after she rejected me on the first try. I scurried over to a corner somewhere to lick my wounds. Moments later our paths crossed again, and this time I went for the gusto. Full road block and halt! She just stood there. “Tongue don’t fail me now” I said to myself. I uttered a few rose colored lines to her, at least enough to get her to have coffee with me. She complied and we met, had coffee, exchanged e-mails, and met the following week for a brief twenty minute lunch. The next time we met after that was at the ticket gate in Motomachi and then off to the love nest we went.

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Easier said than done? No and yes. I was frank about my intentions during our first lunch. For twenty minutes I had just told her what I wanted without coming off too strong, you know what I mean? I had told her it was absurd for a grown man and a woman to just walk around all day window shopping and pretending to be interested in the uninteresting.

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I made the initial proposal “ next time we meet let’s get a room and just hold each other and talk. No sex is fine with me.” Her first reaction was one of confusion. “Hold each other? Talk tenderly? I have never experienced that before.” I rested my large well manicured warm Armani scented right hand gently upon hers and said “yes, that’s exactly what I mean.” And then our eyes met under the dimly lit lamp.

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Sundays are expensive for rooms but it was okay we had nothing but time on our hands. I skipped breakfast that morning because of nervous anticipation; so many butterflies in my stomach that morning for some reason. Normally, I love chasing down Jukujo, but it’s summer and the young women are looking very delicious during this time of year so, I digressed a little. After awhile, all the mini-skirts and well toned thighs get to you and begin to drive you crazy.

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We bathed together. Tongue went down into her ear while whispering sweet nothings through my lips and extended tongue. Instant tummy spasm. We both gazed down at her perky Mt. Fuji’s. I felt them in my hands and said to myself ” wow, this is youth!”

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At any rate, it was time. We moved over to the bed, there we were, warmly embracing each other on silk sheets with her head neatly tucked away under my chin and neck. Micheal Jackson's "I just can't stop loving you," was playing through the Bose speakers on the wall, sub-woofer under the mattress sent thick bass tones up through our bed and body. And then, I had to examine the legs. Down I went.

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What good strength, good firm and well toned thighs. I started from the ankle and followed the tonal lines of her well developed calves to her knee. Along the way, though, I admired the thickness in the lower leg itself. I tried to fit my hand around the calf, but couldn’t. My hands are not small and I could easily grip a basketball, though. When I finally reached the knee I was equally impressed at the smooth roundness of the knee cap and at how it neatly connected to the large quads. The hamstrings were taut and firm and are my favorite part of the human leg. Mayu’s was perfect. Another thing that was perfect and fully intact was her hymen!?

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Footnote: Dickie- A slang in British English that means to sniff the back seat of a car or carriage.

In celebration for being her first, I went out and purchased this Nama sake by Ryu, which was brewed right here in Kanagawa. I asked the sake guy to give me something young and fruity and fresh for the summer, and he gave me this awesome sake. “This is Kanagawa!!” I said to myself.

My Favorite Stops Along The Tohoku Shinkansen

Express trains that run from Tokyo stretching far up into Northern Japan to Hachinohe are called Max Yamabiko/Max Nasuno/Yamabiko/Nasuno/Hayate with stops to some of the best places in Tohoku region. The list of stations along this line, starting from Tokyo: Ueno, Omiya, Oyama, Utsunomiya, Nasushiobara, Shin-Shirakawa, Koriyama, Fukushima, Shiroishizao, Sendai, Furukawa, Kurikoma-Kogen, Ichinoseki, Mizusawaesashi, Kitakami, Shin-Hanamaki, Morioka, Iwate-Numakunai,and finally Hachinohe. Since my focus for this post is food,nihonshu, stations and shrine related, I will only focus on what certain stations have to offer along these lines.

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For starters,whenever riding on one of these express trains, you should pick up a nice lunch box. Both Tokyo and Ueno stations offer deluxe lunch box sets, each featuring the local delicacy of these two cities. You have to request the really good ones since there may not be any in the display case - they sell out quickly. The next station worthy of mention along this line would be Utsunomiya Station. From there if you have a non-reserved ticket you can get off at this station and head down stairs to MinMin, which is a a famous gyoza place for a break without having to actually leave the station, and since this is where most tourist like to visit for gyoza, chances are you'll discover a new taste. Whenever I'm up this way I stop over for a nice gyoza set.

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Next stop along this line is Nasushiobara in Tochigi which is famous for hot springs, cheese, and some nice tasting nihonshu - one recommendation would be Daina and Souhomare. After that stop, you have Shin-Shirakawa. Tourist don’t go there, unless you are a local from this region and you know some nice eats. Some of the greatest Fukushima style ramen places are located here, especially if you like wantan(dumpling) in your ramen. I can recommend two very good local favorites. This is the city that also has my favorite confectionery store called Akebono's. Koriyama is the next stop with it's delicious mangu and sweet cakes. One stop after this is a major stop at Fukushima Station, which connects four other lines; Yamagata Shinkansen, Ou Line, Tohoku Line, Abukuma Kyuko, and Fukushima Kotsu. From Fukushima station you can enjoy a nice super sento, public bath that's built right into the station building near the back, then afterwards enjoy a nice cheesecake at the Italian Bistro, all of which are located in the station.

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From Fukushima you pass Shiroishizao and after that station you arrive at Sendai, another major stop. Sendai station is really cool because they have some good restaurants located in and outside of the station. I recommend crossing the main intersection and heading over to where the neon lights are. There are several gyuton shops that offer this local specialty( beef tongue BBQ place), which aren't that bad really. I still freak out a bit because it was tongue and not ass I was eating last time. Sendai is the largest city in Tohoku with a history dating as far back as 20,000 years. Even during the suppression of Western religions such as Catholicism and Christianity, during Tokugawa's reign, Catholicism flourished here, even still today.

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As we continue along we come to Furukawa and Kurikoma-kogen, which are notable for their milky white sulfur onsen. The hotel I stayed at while up there. A picture I took with an IZ-20 of their private bath. Something else that noteworthy is this dango and this here.

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Some other notable place along this line would be Iwate, which is famous for Chuson-ji Konjiki-do with its beautiful architecture, designs and craftsmanship. It's located about 9 minutes from Ichinoseki Station. I've been there and it's well worth it just for the pictures alone. If you have an interest in Buddhist architecture then this place is a must. Every Japanese once in their life time must make a trip to this place before they die. That's a true saying, by the way.... And, while we are still in Iwate, Jodogahama would be the next best place to stop through with its volcanic rock inlet created 52 million year ago, which according to some sage monks, resemble the heaven of Buddha. By far, this is the most exotic of all the beaches I have seen thus far( inlet is just a fancy word for beach). Two hours from Morioka station and 20 minutes by bus from Miyako Station one can reach this inlet by the sea. If you get hungry and want to enjoy seafood near this station any place is good. My favorite place is called Bureko and is ran by an old couple that really took good care of me the whole time I was there.

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After dinner, heading over to Hanamaki Onsen is a must for the weary traveler with its geo-thermal hot springs. The famed Japanese writer Kenji Miyazawa wrote haikus about this place with its abundance of cherry trees and rose gardens. I have personally been to Hanamaki ten times; twice a year for five years and could probably write things about this area that would thrill the imagination, but won't for now – no time. The next day you can head over to Koiwai Farms, which is Japan's largest integrated farm dating back more than 100 years. The nearest station is Morioka and 40 minutes by bus from there to the farm. I recommend only two things: The steak and the cheesecake!

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Last noteworthy stop would be Hachinohe, and from here you can visit the Hasshoku Center, which is about 9 minutes by bus. Here you can find wide varieties of freshly caught seafood, even shark! I took a picture of a shark that had just been snatched out the water. Finally, we have Oirase Mountain Stream, which has a beautiful 14-km mountain stram surrounded by thick virgin forest. From Hachinohe station; 1 hour 45 minutes by bus. Best time to visit would be between April - October. These suggested places are just a small introduction to this vast region of heaven. I listed six major destination, and a few minor stops that I feel identify what I love about this area.

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