A Japanese client asked me about sights and good places to eat in Tokyo. Instantly, two places came to mind, Yasukuni Shrine and Oedo in Tsukiji, two of my favorite stops in Tokyo! No trip to Japan would be complete without a visit to the Yushukan Museum in Yasukuni in my opinion; just visiting the alter of this sacred shrine wouldn't be enough and neither would it suffice the enormous cultural and spiritual significants attached to it. The legacy of the men and women who fought for the country are enshrined there, so it's much more than just a place to snap pictures of cute gargoyles and blonde haired kimono clad young Japanese girls. It's a place where the bereaved mourn their loss and a place I feel that all Japanese and tourist should visit at least once in their life time. I was asked, so I delivered. Welcome to Yasukuni, again.
It's not the first time I've taken people to this shrine. A few times I've taken females,high schoolers,and even business men here. Yasukuni represents to me an enormous piece of Japanese history that's gone missing in academia, a piece of history shared by both of our countries, two men who would've fought to defend their country had they been called to serve, and two men who were spared such misery by destiny can now walk in peace together down that glorious yellow autumn lane full of dead beauty...amongst the pain and the guilt and the shame. Many ordinary Japanese know little about this place,but the ones who do know, and who have come to terms with the war and its aftermath have come away from this shrine with a deeper and richer understanding of the sacrifices made by their countrymen and women in uniform. I thought to myself this would be a great way we both could share a bit of history between our two countries and enjoy some seafood afterwards, and then back to Yokohama for work.
Everything worked out well getting there. After arriving we headed through those enormous gates adorned with the emblem of the imperial seal, called Kiku, in Japanese. As we approached the main alter I could see yellow leaves falling from the trees and resting along the pathway leading up to the offering box like a warm golden energy. We shared a moment of silence there, heads bowed, then headed over to the Yushukan, a war museum, perhaps the the most thorough and well planned out war museum I have ever visited, aside from the Korean War Museum in Seoul. My client was fascinated by all of the history and exhibits that were on display. The thousands of names of the fallen, both men and women. The artillery and bullets along with the shrapnel. Remains of old soldiers uniforms and diaries, and other memorabilia, which were all on display. He like I was moved because we were in a museum that honored its own people, not condemned them. I gave him a lot to chew on that day.
After spending about an hour or two in the Yushukan (which I did not take a picture of) we decided we had had enough. The sense of loss there was enormous and required time to digest just the basic historical points that so many ordinary people know very little about. We headed back to the parking lot, got in the car and headed to Tsukiji.
Tsukuji is a place I know very well. I have been there dozens of times and I know my way around the place. I know where to eat and I know what's good. For me, I love sea urchin and tuna so my place is called Oedo 大江戸 We were quickly seated and enjoyed a nice bowl of sea urchin and tuna over hot rice along with a delicious bowl of miso. The whole thing was excellent, and I was reminded once again at how much I love Japan.
I am lucky. My client is lucky. I wonder how many of us expats and Japanese alike can realize that...? Why do people come to Japan? I know why I came. Do you...? This is Japan, I hope it never changes.



