箱入り娘：Hako-Iri-Musume

Theme music for this post: Bless This Morning Year by Helios

The title roughly translate to, a cloistered daughter; in other words, a sheltered and overly protected child who knows absolutely nothing about the world. I'd say there's a large swath of Japanese ladies under the age of 30 who know absolutely nothing about themselves, their country, and the world.

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A famous quote from one of my favorite playwrights goes something like this:

"There are only two kinds of people who are really fascinating,--people who know absolutely everything, and people who know absolutely nothing." (Oscar Wilde)

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I remember this quote quite vividly in Contemporary Lit. class, while we were reading a story called " The Picture of Dorian Gray" by Oscar Wilde. And for the record, I have always been an admirer of Oscar Wilde's work. Here's another quote: " Most people are other people. Their thoughts are someone elses opinions, their lives a mimicry, their passions."

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After all of these years these quotes still ring true, even in Japan. I have always felt a sense of revulsion and fascination towards people who display sheer ignorance towards common everyday things. I mean, how can you claim to be a proud Japanese if you know nothing about your own government? I heard from a young lady today that she had never been to a well known and established food chain in her own area, and that she has never even tried ramen, in her whole life! The reasons she gave were as ignorant as her own excuses, yet it was fascinating to listen to her explain her own reasoning. "I don't like food at all," is what she said. I'm not her psychologist, so I dare not analyze her, but even an anorexic model likes food from time to time, even if she has to reverse it the night before a big show. You can have a myriad of health issues and still maintain some form of dietary requirement that doesn't preclude your own national cuisine. To say that you have never been anywhere, or have never tried anything because you are too finicky, or because you live in a closet is totally inexcusable, especially if you appear to be healthy and have no noticeable health issues is just absurd. I had to get rid of a girl two months ago because she couldn't finish off a saucer of sashimi.

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In my years here, I have met some other gems too. I once met a girl on my FB who had no idea a certain city was NOT located in her own prefecture. After she was corrected she quickly apologized and changed the subject after being outed on my FB and in front of everybody.

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Again, I don't want to come off as pretentious, but I do feel that certain things should be just plain old common knowledge.

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This post was submitted to the blog matsuri for March 2011 over at Haikugirl's Japan

Shiobara Green Village: Fukunoyu

For nature lovers like myself who enjoy auto-campsites that have onsen, Shiobara Green Village offers just that and more. The name of the onsen in this picture is called Fuku-no-yu, and it's famous for having an open-air bath with a stone Maneki-Neko, a beckoning cat which is thought to be a symbol of good luck in Japan.

There are some Japanese who will journey far and wide just to say they had a chance to snap a photo sitting in an open air bath next to this maneki neko. I am not really into the legends and stuff like that. Our original purpose for stopping over here was to enjoy the quality of the water and the nice winter chill. The hot spring itself is a natural rich mix of sodium calcium chloride, carbonic acid hydrogen salt, and sulphate. The temperature at the fountainhead is 49 centigrades andPH is 6.6

I highly recommend this water if you want something with good emollient properties.

[The photo has been copyrighted, so please do not use without my permission]

Kinoko No Yado

This Yado (mansion)/ryokan(Japanese inn), is truly an experiment in cuteness. Kinoko means mushroom in Japanese and this mansion is built in the shape of one. If you click on the link you can see the view from the outside. This uniquely designed inn was a mix of modern and classical themes; old wooded baths with modern amenities.

The tub is a real tree hollowed out and made into a bath. I was barely able to squeeze into this thing, but I did and it was a very unique experience for me. The snow was a plus, too. Aside from this fact, another interesting hot spring I posted about before is located right next door to this Japanese inn called Unkaikaku. The indoor bath was modest, but not as hot as I would have liked it.

What we enjoyed most about this inn was the food, the theme, and the overall general atmosphere. The staff were friendly and everything was just homely and comfortable.

Lots of fresh sashimi and seasonal delights, and of course mushrooms which were in the pot were excellent. You may have to check several maps to find this as it's not easily listed. Getting here you can take the nasu highway bus, or by car. Of course I recommend by car. I wouldn't travel any other way.

湯荘 白樺

ゆそう　しらかば　[yuso-shirakaba onsen]

One of the oldest onsen we've ever stayed at was here at this place. Getting here was a bit difficult too since the road conditions were horrible for driving. Luckily my gf, a native of Hokkaido, knew more about how to handle a car on icy roads better than I did. I'm from SoCal.

These out of the way hot springs are not so popular because often times they are smaller and older, but like I've harped on before, it's all about the water. Most people who visit these places do so more for the quality of the water than the hotel itself. And I have learned that over the years as the best way to view and enjoy a hot spring, so don't expect too much in terms of luxury and so on.

Another key feature is the white milky color of the water. On a cold wintery starry night these are by far my favorite hot spring to dip in. If you can tolerate the sulfur smell and the high temps then you should love this type of water, especially at night with a small halogen light source just barely providing enough light to cascade over the steamy water, starry night sky, cold sake, just perfect.

Prices were reasonable as well as the food. Rooms were small and old, but clean and warm.

Disclaimer: Please do not use my photos without my permission or credit.

舟伏の庄: Gifu Soba

Funabu-Senosho

One of the nicest treats during winter in Japan would be a nice hot bowl of udon, a thick wheat-flour noodle. Often times it is served hot with different toppings depending on whatever region you are in. Every region in Japan has its own particular favorite style of udon.

Where I'm eating this udon is in Gifu Prefecture at a place called Funabu-Senosho, and although the local specialty of this region is nishin-udon( udon with herring), I'm eating a bowl of braised pork udon, which is hands down my favorite style of udon. There's just something about hot thick noodles and pork in a hot bowl of broth that's just devine.

No matter where you go in Kyoto, Nagoya, or Gifu, you'll always be able to find a place that serves excellent soba. The reason I chose this shop was because it's a little ways out, and has that down home feeling. I love old wooded restaurants.

東海ーの大露天風呂

The title says [Tokai-Dairotenburo] which basically translates to" large open-air bath of Tokai." The hot spring itself is situated in Okuhida, a pristine region in Gifu prefecture known for its amazing all natural outdoor baths and spas.

For me, especially during spring, visiting these mammoth outdoor baths can be simply amazing. Winter season is good too, but you find that most of your very large baths like the ones you see in this post close during winter, so if you're planning a vacation than keep that in mind. Okuhida is one of many thermo-treasure troves and requires several trips to really take in the true Japan onsen experience of that region - it's my fourth time there.

These amazing [dai-rotens] are really nice when taking a break in between destinations. I really enjoy relaxing in, and soaking in the surrounding green and crisp clean air. What a pity so many people miss out on these very simple pleasures.

( all photos are watermarked)

Tomamu: Hotel Villa Sport

For those who have a chance to head up to Japan's northernmost island, I highly recommend Tomamu in Hokkaido, the largest prefecture in Japan. The picture above is the hotel we stayed at, which had lovely pristine views of snow clad pines and snowscape wintery spruces.

But, be forewarned this part of Japan is not a hot spring paradise, but more like a die-hard ski resort with excellent powder. In the picture below is me and in the backdrop are the famous Tower Hotels, the true symbol of Tomamu Ski Resort. For onsen I recommend Niseko

As you can see I was enjoying snowmobiling for the first time. I think if you have a chance to ride around on this thing you'll love it. Lots of activities can be enjoyed day or night. Hands down, for me, night skiing is the best! Especially with all the illumination and night views from the top of the slope and silky snow just below your skis, makes it the best activity before a big dinner of all-you-can-eat Hokkaido crab.

For the both of us we paid 5000 yen each and had a blast.

The neat thing about this crab was that it was steamed, not boiled. A lot of locals prefer their crab steamed rather than boiled. Unfortunately, a lot of vendors boil their crabs because it's cheaper than buying specialized machines for steaming. Is there a difference taste? Yes! It cannot be argued that steamed crab retains more of the natural flavors of crab whereas boiled crab kills a lot of juiciness in the crab meat.

Our accommodation was very comfortable, the staff came at our every beck-and-call. The ski buses were frequent and on time. If up this way I recommend Hotel Villa Sport because it's cheaper than the Towers. You may need to check that out for yourselves as prices change.

How could I forget the sake, after a couple of these I couldn't focus properly.

Abohkan Onsen

One of the great onsen(s) in Gifu prefecture is called Aboh-Kan, and it's famous for having highly mineral rich hot spring water. In other words, a very high iron content, or hard water.

I know a lot of people who get a little carried away with hot springs, I'm one of them. What I mean by that is, some people bathe too much, every day onsen dipping is not healthy for the immune system. When on vacation I typically hit up two or three different hot springs in a one week period, not every single day for one week. Your immune system needs time to recuperate.

Certain hot springs, like alkaline rich baths are fantastic for the skin, but iron rich...? If you have rheumatic conditions then hot spring water high in iron may help alleviate pain, so as you can imagine lots of elderly go here. It's not as bad as you imagine, the longest most of them stay in the water per day is about 10 minutes! Women stay longer and tend to chat the experience away, no offense.

The Abohkan, is not conveniently located. Anywhere you travel in Gifu, whether it be in Takayama or Shirakawa-go, a car is essential in order to maximize time and efficiency. I stayed one night in this hotel and enjoyed it, especially the wooded baths.

If you like hot water....45degrees centigrade and up....then this is the place to go. There isn't much scenery, but the water is excellent, so I highly recommend here if you have general fatigue and muscle pain.

If staying overnight don't expect much in terms of ambiance and luxury. It's an old rustic place with not much visual appeal and a bit dilapidated.

Keirin School: Beauty & Strength

Aspiring professional keirin riders in Japan compete for entrance into the Japan Keirin School. The 10 percent of applicants who are accepted then undergo a strict, 15-hours per day, training regimen. Those who pass the graduation exams, and are approved by the NJS become eligible for professional keirin races in Japan.

There are several videos of female cyclist in Japanese in the top video. Unfortunately, I won't be translating any of it, but you can get the gist of what they're saying.

Personally, I have been a fan of Keirin for a number of years. I always love watching how perfectly Japanese women infuse beauty with strength. Their overall physical beauty and cuteness is a far cry from what you see in reality. Strength training is something almost unheard of in the major urban areas, unless you attend a gym and do boxercise. Below is a speed demonstration by an incredible female athlete.

I would love to have a Japanese woman like this ....I suspire. You must forgive my usual magniloquence, but when I look at these women I go crazy. Of all the women in the human race, Japanese women never fail to maintain their feminine quality, no matter how hard they train their bodies. Even with increased levels of testosterone from intensive workouts, they never seem to loose that natural cuteness in any way whatsoever. Why it's this way, I don't know. Even the Japanese female shot putters and javelin throwers maintain some semblance of beauty throughout their entire career. Physically, for me, these are the ideal J-girls, like I've said for just about every single woman I have ever posted about. I just love wholeness and natural beauty.

Hanaizumi Fukushima

I never get enough of anything from Fukushima. The snow capped peaks of Mt. Haruna, the Nihonmatsu Castle, the Dairin Temple. I never get tired of the prefectures autumnal brews, and its delicious cuisines. Its natural hot springs, its beautiful rice fields. The old houses. The unspoiled beauty of the countryside. It's a sleepy little boring piece of Japanese beauty that I love. Undisturbed and unfettered by the annoyances of city lights and noise pollution.

Whenever I am up this way I love to sample as much sake as possible. However, I never forget to go back to an old favorite of mine. Hanaizumi.

How to be a Japanese Woman

成人の日 Seijin no Hi

( photo credits go to dilbit) Having the courage to be who you want to be; having the courage to fuck your own men, even if it's me sometimes, just for good measure. Having the courage to choose what you want in life; having the courage to be all you can be is my prayer for today's Japanese girls 2011.

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[what I'm listening to while writing]Tasogare Highway High (Bass Wanna Be a Singer) by DJ KENTARO

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Today is an historical event which marks the coming of age for millions of young Japanese females across Japan. In this country, 20 years of age marks the beginning of adulthood, the second Monday of every January. On this day, you can see thousands of beautiful kimono clad Japanese women walking around with family and friends. Some are snapping up photos with Mickey at Disneyland, the most ridiculous appellation of cute, cool, and chic. The legal drinking age in Japan is 20, yet no sake brewery to my knowledge will sponsor an event promoting nihonshu....Instead these newly christened adults will head to their local pubs to, and for the first time legally, drink down cheap watered down cocktails laden with sugar and all sorts of unnatural stuff, while further alienating them from the knowledge of their own national drink, and all while foreigners continuously invent and reinvent the sake drinking experience day after day, all over the world. Moreover, these young Japanese women will get drunk and taken advantage of by young Japanese boys because they know that these girls become vulnerable from all the attention they'll be receiving, some for the first time in their lives.

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Becoming a Japanese woman is in stages. First, there's the Menarche stage, which by far is the most important stage to becoming a Japanese woman. She has to learn that her own body is a shrine and from it the whole nation was born. She will become a lover and mother someday. Hopefully she can learn to love her own men, and not white and korean men. And, that she will procreate in order to save her race, face and nation from extinction. Japanese man + Japanese woman = Japanese, only.

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I pray to the gods that young Japanese women of 2011 will learn their own history and travel around their own country first before spending millions of yen traveling to other countries. That they will learn how to be "Japanese" in soul first and foremost before being white/black or anybody or anything lesser.

[As I write this I am listening to]

Nocturne by Daft Punk

Skinny is neither beautiful nor cute. Having no breast and no ass is not cute. Having a skin complex and an inferiority complex is not cute. Cute is not even cute! Stop being so goddam Euro-trashy with all of your gaudy make-up and piss for perfume. Stop being so American slutty and cheap and selfish.

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Remedy:

1) Visit Yasukuni Shrine 2) Drink good nihonshu 3) Accept free speech as a right of the people even if it comes from the Right Wing. 4) Learn English 5) Running and weight training 6) Eating more 7) Appreciating the virtues of "Wabi-Sabi"

おさかなてい

How does one judge whether a sushi shop is good or not? Some like me are addicted to magazines that tell us where to eat, others by word of mouth, like with almost anything. Like in the case of this sushi shop called O-sa-ka-na-te-i, located in Tsubame in the heart of Niigata City. I have been here and the one thing that impressed me the most was at how fresh the fish was from catch to serve-visible spasms and twitches from freshly caught fish. Others may not regard this as noteworthy. Some could say customer service is key, or timeliness, or even cleanliness. Some are more focused on garnishes and visual appeal. For me, it's the freshness of the sushi. At this sushi restaurant everything is good. Am I an expert? No. Are you? Who is? We all follow word of mouth, and not so much are own tongue. If a Japanese person claims that this restaurant is good, it's usual good and if Japanese trust other Japanese then I'm right behind them.

When I search through all of my intellectual property online and in hardback I am amazed at how much I haven't even added yet. I haven't even scratched the surface of my own content and materials, so this year I plan to offer more useful information on Japan, of course I'll continue my usual apotheosis on sake, and Jukujo.

I'm not sure it's me or not, but how sushi is served in Hokuriku and Tohoku is a little different from Kanto. I notice the portion sizes are a lot larger here. I also notice that the fish isn't cold, more like room temperature. I love it this way because all the flavors come out whereas in North America all the sushi is served super cold and straight from the freezer literally. Only the Japanese know how to prepare really good sushi.

So, if ever in Niigata City, and you have time and a car please click on the link above and follow the map. It's definitely well worth a stop and it's one of those highly recommended restaurants in magazines and newspapers. Can't remember who it was who asked me a year ago, but here is the post I had originally intended to post thanks to you.

Enjoy

Takemichi

Takemichi has a peculiar taste to it that gives it similar characteristics to white wine. It's elegant and light on the palate with its own unique effervescent qualities in the first sip; a little fizzy, gassy. It's well balanced, delicate tail. The nose very pleasant and aromatic. The bounty of Shimane comes through on every sip.

( The prefectural seal of Shimane Prefecture, which represents the Peony, fish, Japanese black pines, and the Whooper swan).

The reason for selecting this sake for this post is because it's one of those Sea of Japan sake brewery greats. It's one of those hidden gems of a sake that rarely gets any attention. Most people associate good sake with Niigata and rarely do they ever mention Shimane. I remember back in 09' Tokyo Food Cast editor offered me a ticket to attend a Shimane sake tasting event in Tokyo. Not sure I had a chance to thank her for that invite, so Etchan, if you are reading this, thank you. I don't often get around to shake everybody's hand - I'm shy.

In this post, the sake I am drinking again is called Takemichi and it too hails from Shimane Prefecture, a part of Japan steeped in culture and history. The name of the brewery is called Ouroku Sake Brewery. They use Estate grown Yamadanishiki rice that's polished at 55%. It's a Jyunmai-Ginjyo-Muroka-Nama-Genshu. Best if served chilled with a light chicken salad.

Heart warming local Japanese matron; down to earth, refreshing, vivacious and beautiful. The old soul. These are some of the impressions I get when I talk to people from this prefecture. Very Japan centered folk. I love them.

Dear Kami: My Hatsumode

Dear Kami, Thank you for a very interesting year. I learned a lot about people, about myself, too. I learned that it's ok to forget and to release the past. But, at the same time I also learned that it's not OK to entirely  forget the past because it's from our past that we learn our future. The future does not exist, yet the past is are only indication of what may lie ahead, for if we do not learn from the past we are bound to make the same mistakes again.



I closed myself off and stopped socializing in order to reassess my bearings, and why I was socializing. I'm glad I did. I do intend to make a major come back on the social scene this year, though, and with a goal of putting myself out there, so to speak. To further the gospel of Japan love, Jukujo, and Japanese sake. Thank you for all the people I have met over years. Thank you for all the happy times, even the sad ones. The heartbreaks the let downs, the disappointment, the joys.



I have learned that a smile isn't a smile, and that mere words alone simply roll off the icy cold glass window pane. Love is a sacrifice, not a kiss or flowery words.  I have learned that people are all different, and that I do not have to always compromise with these people. If I choose to hang out with dung beetles then it's going to be on my own terms, not theirs.  If you do not drink the ancient rice brew then shame on you.



Superficial and pretentious are words I must learn to overcome. Superficial in what I want, and from who I want it from. Pretentious I am not, but come off as in the eyes of others.  Pretentious and arty would be me trying, I am not and neither have I ever tried to be either.  I have placed an enormous degree of importance on things like onsen, sake, and the Jukujo, and so on.  It's because these things are what I value over the rampant sub-culture and anglo worship of this country.  I don't find Haikyo to be beautiful; dead buildings and remnants of old left rotting unattended. I don't think it's chic to mix wine and nihonshu; fried chicken and sushi. Interracial marriage is not cute either.


There's only one Japan, yet there are many Americas. This year I hope for more Jukujo encounters. More hot springs, more sake, more tales must be told. Hopefully, I can lecture more on the Right and the science of "wa." I aspire to become a better human being, a mentor, a lover, a Japanologist. A better connoisseur.   Better than best.   God of my own desires.

じゃがバター: Miracle Food

The boiled potato that's been battered and deep fried in butter.

There's a breaded coating around this huge potato.

A huge mound of butter slabbed across it!

The butter just oozes deep into the potato. Salt and pepper is sprinkled generously on the potato!

Miracle miracle food, miracle food. What an outstanding potato! These can be enjoyed now during the new year holiday at temples and shrines, or during summer. I looooooooove Japan!

These and other wonderful pics can be viewed here:

Show me Japan

二ユーおおたか

The navigation on my rent-a-car wasn't able to pinpoint the exact location of the New Otaka, so I had to pull over and ask two locals. One was a bus driver and the other was a lovely Jukujo who was ripe and sweaty from shoveling snow, a picture perfect beauty. Of course I forgot what the bus driver told me, but when the lovely matron apologized because of not knowing the whereabouts of my hotel, I was left with having to go to the visitors bureau for help.

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Stepping in, I was greeted by a young and narrow figured Japanese girl. She was very helpful and told me that my bearings were off by 6km and that I needed to continue heading up the main road until I reached the very top. She made it extra clear to me that snow tires were absolutely essential if I were going to make it up there, and she was right. Lucky for me the studless snow tires were on the rent-a-car at no extra cost so I was able to make it up rather easily. Even still, I was nervous all the way up though.

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That long winding road, which was all covered in snow and ice, was very dangerous to be on, even for snow cutters. I was literally hugging the steering wheel all the way up with eyes glued to the wind shield. If I saw a small rock on the road I would stop and go around it, I didn't want any strange mishaps or funny luck happening to me. Finally reaching the top I caught a snowy view of the hotel's name on the sign board, I was relieved.

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Walking in to the hotel I was warmly greeted by a young man who called me by my first name - no raised eyebrows. They treated me like any guest. Then a kanreki obasaan came round the bend and greeted me and helped me sign in and showed me to my lovely suite; a spacious room with a beautiful wintery view. I was so happy.

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Right now as I'm typing this, the first wave of guests are rolling in from the station. From Nasu Shiobara station it takes one full hour to reach the hotel. If you take a taxi it takes 45 minutes. It is exactly 4:30 as I type! Check in time is at 3pm. I checked in at 2pm, that's why I had the hot spring all to myself. And, I get to enjoy my dinner in the comfort and privacy of my own room. Dinner is at 6:30, so I'm drinking sake now. Three different local brands .

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The bath was especially impressive with its rich sulfur which soaked deep into my bones, my soul. The snow fell like powdered sugar across my face, my shoulders. A holy hush, a silence that was so suffocatingly beautiful, in the womb. The majestic mountains before me, strong and secure. Everlasting. I got five sexts from my Jukujo mom today. I didn't reply to them because I was on the road and I hate texting when heading somewhere.

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The indoor bath was just as nice. I usually sit in the indoor bath first to get my body temp. up, then I head out and sit in the outdoor bath.

///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// After finishing the first hot spring session I dried off and headed back up to my room. Shortly after, there was a pleasant knock on my door and a lovely matron was standing there. "Dinner is ready," she uttered warmly from her voice box. I cleared my table. She comes back and brings me a modest spread of delicious Japanese food. I was impressed.

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The rice came last, which is typical in any Japanese hotel dinner setting. The food was pleasing to the eye as well as the stomach. ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Bamboo, carrots and a potatoe

Rolled squid with fish cake and chicken.

Tochigi's legendary beef and potato salad.

Pot boiled pork with vegetables.

All-in-all, I rank this meal a B+ because I was allowed to eat it in my room, other than this accommodating point the meal was rather simple, yet satisfying. I have had better.

Climbing back into my easy chair, sake packed around snow outside my window, Macbook and iphone syncing, I relaxed and enjoyed the deliciousness of the evening sunset as it dipped just below the horizon.

During the course of the evening I used the onsen four times. I finally went to bed at around 2am. I got up at around 7am.

The sun had shone shyly that morning, through the clouds and the ice.

I checked out earlier than usual. Normally, I check out exactly at 10, but this time I was on a mission to visit two fantastic places here and here.